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24 November 2009

Tree Houses

R: "Have you noticed that there don't seem to be any homeless people in Hanoi?"

-- "Yeah. What's with that?"

R: "I wonder if they ship them away from tourist areas. Like in Beijing before the Olympics?"

-- "I wouldn't be surprised ...

-- "But you do still see a lot of very poor people hanging around ...

-- "You just never see them sleeping out."

R: "Hey - Olive! Can we ask you a question?"

O: "Yes kiwi. Yes daddy. What?"

R: "Are there any homeless people in Hanoi?"

O: [Wide eyed interest] "People?"

R: "Homeless. You know? No house. Have to sleep outside."

O: "Yes. Homeless. Yes there are many homeless."

[She couldn't have looked less interested if she tried. Complete unconcern.]

R: "But we don't see any? Where are they?"

O: "They go to the park." [Smiles]

R: "All of them?"

O: "Yes." [Smiles and nods, somewhat dismissively.]

R: "Really? Are you sure?"

O: "Yes kiwi. Yes daddy." [Smiles ethereally and returns to her work.]

23 November 2009

The Whole Set Of Permanent

Today I registered for our company health and life insurance program.

Even though the marketing material is in Vietnamese, it is littered with photos of goofy- joyous potatoes.

Case in point:


This is a very cheery family portrait. So I figured it must have something to do with dental benefits. Or pregnancy. But I still wanted to know more. Exactly why were these potatoes were so happy? So I asked Google Translate to help me and the results were somewhat unexpected.

"Tử vong" MEANS Death

"Thương tật toàn bộ vĩnh viễn" AKA"Injury the whole set of permanent"

What is Injury the whole set of permanent? Google Translate couldn't offer alternatives so I asked one of the secretaries.

"The Whole Set of Permanent" took some explaining. It demanded quite an insensitive reenactment of a severely disabled person. Think zombies; lots of grunts; more than a little gurning.

THEREFORE "Injury the whole set of permanent" MEANS Complete and permanent incapacitation, often mental disability.

So this is the part of the discussion where we talk about worst case scenarios.

$5,000/ người MEANS I will get $5,000 if I die or if I become a zombie.

This is the type decision that can only be made lightly. It's not every day that you get to put a price on your life. I headed straight to the dotted line and signed.

So now my life is insured for $5,000.

Then I realised why that goofy potato family in the picture are so happy. There were probably 3 ugly children in that photo the week before. Now there are 2 ugly children and a $5,000 windfall. Hence the smiling. Greedy potatoes.

"Horray! You're sick."

"Ha ha! Our kids are well but yours are sick!"

Perhaps these images capture the mood after all. Vietnamese people love being sick. I called my Travel Agent today and said "Hi Hana - how are you?" to which she replied "Not good. Tired. And a little Sick." I could hear through the phone that she was gently smiling as she told me.

By this stage I had given up on Google Translate and asked someone to walk through the rest with me.

Turns out I can also claim up to $400 per year on dental. $400! That should net me 2 cleans and a filling. The thought of what I could get for $400 turns me off sugar.

And if I am admitted to hospital I will be paid a stipend of $5/day. I wouldn't know what to buy. (I really wouldn't know what to buy.)

So much pain. So little gain. Who would be bothered with suicide nowadays? Especially with the US dollar being so weak. You can forget about wearing couture in your open coffin. These numbers say "get a tracksuit, deady".

The reason for including this next image was becoming clearer and clearer:

"Don't think you will avoid using this if you get sick - we're not a charity."

There is also up to $500 per year in medical. Hence this doctor, below.

"Heart surgery is expensive. Luckily, our surgeons are not fully trained, so they are quite cheap. "

This is a cheerily ill man:
"I'm off to present my Insurance Card and Id Card at the Hospital"

That's really what it says. He doesn't seem too sick to me.


"I'm going to collect all necessary documentation."

That's really what it says. I'd seen enough. If he was charging around with his briefcase like that, I would be asking him for a lot of evidence, too.

I started to speculate: what if Marsh Insurance is using these happy potatoes to incite racism? What if it is implying that the potatoes are still mocking dead or sick Vietnamese people, a generation after the Saigon had fallen? I wouldn't be surprised.

I can imagine the Marsh Insurance marketing workshop in Ho Chi Minh City ... "Let's shove some healthy smiling potatoes alongside tales of medical woe. Show how the potatoes don't care ... that they even think it's funny when we get sick."

By the time got to the part about claiming, I was certain this was the case.

"We're going to get 2 gay guys to laugh at your claim before we reject it."

"It wasn't us that rejected your claim, it was the fucking potatoes."

It's great to know that someone's got my back. I hope they don't have a knife. Insurance is so reassuring.

21 November 2009

Oh! First Kiss

... is the name of my new favourite somewhat dated Vietnamese pop song.


The first scene of this video is the best. Just seeing the frenzied excitement of the young folk attending a pop concert. Vietnam's finest. I guess you'd have to be in the audience to really feel the mood.

Why would the editor decide to use that particular audience shot to kick-off this concert video?

20 November 2009

All My Fault


1. Fallen heroes are all my fault

One of my Vietnamese colleagues walked past my desk yesterday afternoon and casually said:

"Hey Anthony. I heard you didn't catch someone in the training session last week and he fell off the table."

That translates to:

"Stupid fat potato didn't pay attention and the nice man got hurt."

I felt like an exhibit at the War Museum - my potato actions reported back with a heavy bias to a willing audience.

I thought to myself "Is this how it's being retold?" ... while saying to him "Umm ... that's really not the way it happened."

But he was already walking away smiling. I was too late.

He didn't need to stop for an explanation from me. He didn't need one. A new truth had ridden into town, and he had hitched his wagon to it.

As he left me I heard him muttering (over his breath)"Wow That must have hurt a lot ..." and then giggle slightly as he shook his head.

I just sat there with a stunned look on my face. I knew this look. It was the look of one who has just fallen backwards off a table and onto the floor without being caught.

2. Spiders are all my fault

Last week I was talking with Huong, who works in HR. We were talking about geckos (as you do) and I mentioned that I'd never seen a spider here in Hanoi.

Turns out, says Huong, that the only spiders here are small and harmless but people are still scared of them. I talked about how big and ugly the Huntsmen spiders are in Australia and showed her a photo on Google images.

At this point Huong looked up at me with an admonishing look on her face:

H: "Why do you let them get so big?"

Me: "What do you mean?"

H: "In Vietnam we would never let spiders become so big. We would kill it when it is small."

Me: "This is a different type of spider. Some spiders in Australia are big."

H: [ignoring me] "So why you don't kill it when it's small?"

I felt like I was being accused of being lazy; or careless.

Me: [defensively] "It's not my fault." [And then after regaining my composure.] "Are you really saying it's my fault that the spiders are so big? They are in the trees when they are small."

Even I realised how silly I was sounding. But I wanted to see how this would play out.

H: "Trees? Hmm ... yes maybe ... but still ... this would never happen in Vietnam. "

[She stopped a while. I tough she was reflecting but later realised she was just summoning back the admonishment.]

H: "We would never let it happen are little people and we don't let things grow big. But you are western. So big. So potato ..."

It's all my fault that Huntsmen spiders are so big and ugly.

Sorry everyone.

It's Only a Matter of Time

"Earlier this year, Vietnam's government tightened restrictions on blogging, banning political discussion and restricting postings to personal matters. Police have arrested several bloggers for writing about politically sensitive subjects."

17 November 2009

Anything To Save Face


This is our own little Kristallnacht ... and I approve of it ... as I do with most genocides.

Everyone knew it was coming. Even the potatoes were forewarned. It's been the talk of the town since yesterday, when it was starting to be blocked. The blocking seems to be happening one internet provider at a time.

It is only really hurting the potatoes. You can hear their background music in many bars and cafes: "I can't get Facebook any more".

Most Vietnamese people already have a workaround. It's just the stupid potatoes who can't work it out. The only group the government doesn't care about.

Yes while the locals are continuing to post updates on their profile, the potatoes are dropping crocodile tears into their burgers.

But it's about time the government did something. Vietnamese Facebook users are infidels. Here are some recent examples of postings from my own Facebook wall.

1. From Olive

"daddy, i wanna tittle-tattle Kiwi, he misleaded me to say bad words to big sis..."

R is the kiwi she is referring to. I wonder if to tittle-tattle someone involves unwanted sexual advances?

2. Also from Olive

"I think we can be animals family. daddy = dinosaur, big sis = lion, kiwi = wolf, n... babybee ^^"

I have absolutely no idea what this all means. But I guess I'm a dinosaur. I don't know what to do with this new menagerie but I expect to soon be told.

3. From Tung, the waiter at a local bar.

"hey bro,how're u,i miss u.will u be free this friday.friday is my birthday.u're hopeful to join my party.hope i can see u in my party.will u join"

Yes, I will join. Why are you calling me bro?

4. Back to Olive:

"daddy, Kiwi is bad, he's bullying me. I learnt new English from big sis last day, when that clumpsy Kiwi nearly drop his money: "Finder keeper, loser wiper" ^^"

I love the word clumpsy. It's an improvement to the originaly Of course there is this old staple:

5. Olive again:

"Mizzu, daddy! Where r u? Where's my gift? :-P"

And so on and so forth. This seems to be how Vietnamese people use Facebook.

R accidentally overstayed his work visa (forgot to renew). This is a communist country (the type of country that bans Facebook) so he needed to tread very carefully when exploring his options. He went to the HR department of the agency he works at. Within 2 hoursthe following was posted to his Facebook wall:

6. From his friend and colleague, L:

"Hey dude! I heard your visa is expired? Haha!!!! What you gonna do? Bummer man. You could be in trouble."

There are no secrets in Vietnam.

7. This from L's Facebook wall:

"Working at [Client name] site today. It really sucks there."

There were replies from the client, saying "Hope you're not referring to me man."

To which L replied "No man. Just your internet is so slow and bad."

L's company is responsible for providing the internet services and most of his friends in Facebook are either from his company, with many from the client.

8. Also from L's Facebook:

"Back to work today. I fucked up all the deadlines but no one knows! Hehe"

9. L also used his Facebook profile to celebrate his new love, then to openly wage war with the cuckold, and then later to wallow over the split-up:

"L is trying to do what he's best at - be a man, stay cool, calm and collected. But it's still so hard getting some sleeps, the stupid mind just doesnt rest at all."

"What goes around comes around. I broke 2 hearts and now it's time to payback. "khi qua bao den, toi chap nhan trung phat ma ko keu than""

"Lạy tạ lá khô rơi. Chết vui cho cành nẩy lộc". Sometimes you have to say goodbye for a glorious come back. Sometimes, it takes a broken heart to heal a broken heart. I'll be there honey. Goodbye

Followed by this:

It's all Red and Yellow here. But the heart is blue. Damn, I miss you
His friend replied with: "Bro... You can do it :).. There's no mistake to love with all ur heart and soul :)"

And then this:

"You touched my heart you touched my soul. You changed my life and all my goals. And love is blind and that I knew when, My heart was blinded by you. "

And this:

"That last kiss, I'll cherish Until we meet again. And time makes It harder. I wish I could remember. But I keep Your memory. You visit me in my sleep. My darling. Who knew..."

L was seeing his girlfriend for 2 months. Maybe 6 weeks. Very soon he will have been lamenting on Facebook for longer than the relationship lastered.

I've said it before and will say it again: this whole country is in Year 10.

I don't think that the Vietnamese Communist Party banned Facebook due to fear of social networking being a tool for group political action or dissent. I think the reasons were that it was just ... too ... embarrassed about what its people have been doing with it. This ban is not in the interests of public safety, but dignity.

15 November 2009

The Cover Version


Bought today from a DVD store in the Old Quarter:



I guess that explains the look on her face.

13 November 2009

Teamwork and Trust in Vietnam

I find my name, misspelt, on a card on a round table in the Ho Chi Minh Conference Room on the third floor of the Hanoi International Hotel.

It is 8.00am and the course is called Mandatory Leader Training WorkshopI tried to wriggle out of it yesterday but was told by HR: "Cannot Anthony - it's mandatory."

At 8.30am our instructor arrives and introduces himself as Larry. He is a lovely guy from Rhode Island who has worked in the company for 25 years and is happy to be in Vietnam. His shoes are old and scuffed and I suspect we only use him for in-house courses these days.


Exercise 1: ice breaker

Our first exercise is predictable.

“Write down the name of a leader you admire, and which qualities ..."

We share our results and Larry is way too enthusiastic.

[…]


Exercise 2: teamwork

We stand in a circle and count from 1 to 18.

Two teams are formed by sending the odd numbers to one side and the evens to the other.

I am the only foreigner on Team B, an enormous white blob towering over my peers.

Larry marches us to the back of the room and marshals each team under a sheet of A4 paper that is hanging from the ceiling.

The ugly vertical blinds in the windows remind me of my childhood bedroom and I start to daydream.

My team pokes me awake and hands me a pen. "We have to write our names on the paper!" they say, pointing to the paper.  I reach up and pull it down from the ceiling so we can write on it. 

My team's smiles turn to icy glares and they back away from me like a skunk in a lift. Larry looks over and groans. 

Larry re-explains that we were supposed to keep the paper up there and use teamwork for each person to write their name.

The game is suspended and people glare at the foreigner who ruined the game. Larry hunts for more A4 paper, reholes it, restrings it and rehangs it.

"Three ... two ... one ... go."

It is Team A vs Team B.

I rise onto my toes, write my name in the top box and hand my pen to the guy next to me. He can't reach and gives up immediately, handing it to a girl in jeans. She jumps up but can't quite manage it either. The clock is against us.

I am so focused on the A4 that I haven't noticed my team slowly gathering around me with hungry eyes, like cannibals at Christmas lunch.

Within seconds I am pushed onto all fours and my teammates start climbing onto me in quick succession. 

Arms and elbows press into my back and I groan as their palms press hard into my hips. The more nervous climbers are hoisted up by their teammates and dropped onto my back. I feel like a mistreated horse.

By the time our final competitor jumps onto me, I have become a fully functioning bridge.

She positions her toes en pointe as she stretches to write her name and I feel a disc dislodge as she bounces off me to cheers and high-fives.

Our team rushes to Larry with the paper, abandoning me on all fours. I spring up quickly as he announces our victory, lest they return to mount me for a victory lap.


Exercise 3: building trust

After lunch we are divided into the same teams. This time I listen carefully to the instructions.

This is the one where you fall backwards and trust your team to catch you.

Two tables at the back of the room will serve as makeshift cliffs. 

The three white people are singled out and told we are not allowed to jump. One teammate points at me and cackles a helpful "We're not catching him! Not possible!" as I look down and mumble "I am not allowed to jump", like a pale child with a note from his parents saying he is allergic to everything.

Larry blows on a cheap plastic whistle and we march to the tables.

Most of our team are relatively small so it isn't going to be a huge challenge. 

One of the shorter guys offers to go first, pushing his glasses up the bridge of his nose as he nods his head sharply, like a nerd psyching himself up for a date with a whore. In the previous exercise he had been very nervous to climb onto the old white mare but now he is at full steam, likely buoyed by this morning's victory. He climbs onto the table and gets into position as we decide our process.

They volunteer me as the primary catcher and we form a huddle, a disorganised kerfuffle, to debate the safest way to catch someone (palms up? wrist grabs? lattice?).

While we are talking, we hear Team A's first jumper drop back into safe hands, to cheers and congratulations. This added pressure pushes us to agree on an approach: palms up seems safer.

Then it happens.

A brief WHOOSH. Then a THUD.

No one breaks his fall.

He must have been deep in his prep as he heard the cheers of Team A. I imagine him biting his bottom lip as he psyched himself up: it's now or never.

We look down at him, horrified to see him on the ground shaking. He looks back at us in shock and his arms are still raised above his head.

We start to help him up but his legs give way, so we carry him (palms up) to the lobby area as a doctor is called.

About 10 minutes later a stunned Larry returns to the room and robotically launches into his wrap-up.

Larry: "So. Umm. Team A. Who went first in your team?"

-- "I did."

Larry: "How did you feel at that point, Minh?"

--"It felt fantastic actually."

Larry: "That's great. It really demonstrates the importance of teaming and trust."

Larry: "And Team B? How did ... oh ... That's right. Didn't go so well."


Insights gained: Look before you leap.