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23 January 2009

Not stirred

Pune, Maharashtra, India.

My last night

I am sitting alone in a really nice restaurant which was recommended by a colleague. 

Alone does not just refer to my table for one, but more to my restaurant for one, because I am the only customer in this entire restaurant.

A coaster with the restaurant's logo is sitting on my table has a picture of a Martini and says "Royal Orchid: shaken, not stirred."

There was no martini on the cocktail menu so I beckoned the waiter and pointed to the coaster. He squinted, leaned toward the coaster and started to crouch as if he were looking for a small stain.

I helpfully repeated the order with a "Could I please have one Royal Orchid?". He stared blankly at my face as he repeated the words "Royal Orchid" twice, slowly, and it began to feel a bit serial killery.

I stopped him repeating it a third time with a "No. No problem. I just want to know if you have martinis?". He said he didn't know so went off to the bar to check. A few minutes later he came back with a broad smile nestled under his broader mustache to proclaim that, yes indeed, yes they did offer martinis.

I order a vodka martini with an olive:

Him: "A side of olives?"
Me: "No, the olive is on a toothpick in the martini."
Him: "Side of olives and some toothpicks?"
Me: "No, just an olive for the martini, it is on the toothpick."
Him: [puzzled] "So olives, yes?"
Me: "No. No olives. Please ask the bartender for a classic vodka martini. Classic Martini. Vodka. Classic. CLASSIC MARTINI. Normal. Classic. Normal."
Him: "Certainly, sir."

10 minutes pass before he returns to the table and gingerly places a bowl of olives in front of me. Not a good sign. 

Another 15 minutes pass before he comes back with a full martini glass on the tray. I notice the liquid is quite cloudy. He sets it down and I notice 4 black olives submerged in the glass, clinging for dear life onto a plastic blue swizzle stick .

I pull one olive out to try it. The swizzle stick oozes oil, or brine, or some other liquid that is not vodka, into my glass. I taste the olive and it's revolting ... so I quickly remove the swizzle stick and lay its hostages on the table.

I taste the martini itself and it's incredibly sweet. As in 3-shots-of-lime-cordial-and-1-shot-of-vodka sweet. Actually I can't taste any vodka but assume it must be there. 

The waiter sees me wincing through my first sip and comes over as I put down the glass.
Him: "You like your drink, sir?"

Me: "Umm ... no. Not really. This is not a martini. Don't worry though ... it's fine. Just please tell the bartender for next time that you need green olives. Not black olives. And also it's got something like lime cordial in it. It shouldn't have lime cordial or juice or anything sweet like that."
Him: "Yes, lime cordial."
Me: "Martinis are not sweet. Martinis have no sugar."
Him: "Yes. Not sugar. Lime cordial"
Me: "Please tell the bartender no lime cordial in a martini"
Him: "Thank you, sir. Is the cocktail to your liking?"
Me [pauses]: "Umm ... yes. Yes it is. Thank you."
Him: "You're very welcome, sir" 

I am completely stumped, so go back to politely sipping my martini. This is customer manipulation at its finest.

02 January 2009

Happy New Year from Quadrants 3 and 4

I stayed at the Taj Hotel, Mumbai, as a new year treat to myself.

New Year's Day is a Thursday but I don't have the luxury of taking the Friday off because I am a contractor. In any case, our project is so busy that most of the office will be working.

My first day of work for 2009, 2 January 2009, is outlined below. It was updated throughout the day when I found myself with spare time (which, as it turned out, was often).

– – – 

Thursday, 1 Jan 2009

I decide to stay at the hotel until early Friday morning and am assured by the concierge that Mumbai's notorious traffic will be subdued because so many people are away for New Year, and the trip should be 2.5 hours 'at worst'. 

I book a car to leave at 7am because I have scheduled an important meeting for 10am and it is critical that I am not late.

Friday, 2 Jan 2009

06:55 I check out and they give me the driver's phone number. I call him and he says, 'Oh yes, no problem Mr Anthony, welcome to India, I am there in 5 minutes'.


07:10 The driver has not arrived. I try calling him again, twice, but he does not pick up. I assume he is parking.

07:14 Driver arrives and goes through the extensive security at the Taj rather than just calling me.

07:17 We leave the hotel and set off for Pune.

07:18 We drive around the corner and stop to get petrol. I wonder why the he had waited until I was in the car for this event. (Do I need to pay? Should I tip someone? Should I get out and help?)

No help is needed from me.

07:23 Driver stops at a public urinal, those ones where the barrier is at chest height and offers the public a row of heads, I wonder again why he waited for me.

08:01 We stop for a coffee break. I don't need a coffee and didn't ask for one. I wonder again why he didn't just ... never mind. I think I'm getting the hang of this.

08:28 Driver stops on highway and gets out and turns his back to me. No explanation is provided in advance but his motive becomes obvious when I spot a stream of piss heading across from his body to what is best described as an al fresco urinal. 

09.55 We arrive at the office. I am just in time for the meeting.

I sign in at the lobby using a special book called 'CONTRATORS'. As with every other morning, my sign-in process is supervised by a friendly, thin, moustachioed man who helpfully reminds me (with a disappointed smile) that I write with my left hand.

10:00 I seat myself in the meeting room. No one has turned up early so I am the first to be seated.

10:15 No one has turned up.

10:25 Still no one. I check the calendar invite and the attendee confirmations before heading out in search of my posse.

10.29 I find one of the invited people ("A") and ask if we are still having our meeting.  A wishes me a Very Happy New Year and asks all about my trip to Mumbai.  He continues with a few follow-up questions and then offers some observations about life in Mumbai.  A seems in no rush to discuss or join the meeting so I eventually interrupt him to remind him, again, that we have a 10 o'clock meeting. He looks officiously and sternly at his watch, feigns shock, tells me he will go and get the others 'straight away' for our meeting and heads off.

10.32 I return to the room to wait.

10:40 No one has turned up.

10:55 Still no one.

11:00 Still no one. 

I abandon the meeting and return to my desk.

I remember that I had planned to send some paper documents so rush out to book a courier. The secretary helps me with this and tells me she'll give me a shout when the courier arrives ... and that it shouldn't be long. 

I ask her for a rough estimate and she smiles as she wobbles her head assuredly with a 'in some time'.

11:50 I find A walking past my desk. 

More small talk ensues, this time about my stay here in Pune ... whether I have seen much in the area, possible sightseeing options for the weekend, and then of people in Calcutta that I could contact if I decided to go there (I have never mentioned Calcutta so assume he is originally from there).

It is as if our previous encounter had never existed. 

I remind him about our 10am meeting and ask when we could have it. He says very confidently 'I will go and get the others now' with a slight head wobble on 'others now' but no stern looks at his watch. 

We agree to reconvene in the meeting room so I head back there to wait.

12:20 I'm still in the meeting room, alone.

12:30 No one has come so I duck out to check on the courier. 

He should be here by 2pm, I am told.

I make a mental note that some time means 3 hours. Indians use special words for numbers, like Lakh for 10 thousand and crore for 10 million, so why not some time for 3 hours?

12:57 Someone walks into the room and I feel elated. 

"B" greets me with a "Hi Anthony. Happy New Year."  He remains standing as he launches into some more small talk about Mumbai and Indian food.

After a couple of minutes I find a pause while he draws breath and interrupt to remind him of our 10am meeting. He counters with ´Let's have the meeting at 2pm. We will go through everything then´.

13:15  I go back to my desk and fill in my time by typing and looking busy in that manner of a consultant on a day rate with no work. 
 
13:58 I return to the meeting room for my 10am 2pm meeting.

14:15 No one has turned up.
 
14:20 "C" walks in and introduces himself. I've never met him before so our small talk takes on an elementary flavour: from Sydney, arrived last Sunday, yes I do like Indian food, no it's not too spicy, no I haven't had a chance to go to the nearby waterfall yet, yes and thanks for that advice it's a great idea.

He tells me that B is on his way and suggests that we should wait here in the room. I realise that C was not on the invite list but am thankful that he came anyway.

14:25 I dash out to tell the secretary where I will be when the courier arrives and to ask what is taking him so long? I am told that he should be here by 15:00.

14:30 It doesn't seem like B is coming back so I start the meeting by introducing myself to C, including my background and reasons for the meeting.

14:31 B walks in and interrupts my introduction to announce that we can now start the meeting. 

It will just be C and him, as A is not in the office at the moment because he 'has to be somewhere else'. I ask where, and why, but I can't understand the mumbled answer and don't want him to repeat it all again: we've wasted enough time already.

B assures me that we should start ... that it won't be a problem as we three can cover everything.

14:32 I feel a mild sense of exhilaration as our 10am meeting kicks off.

I introduce myself again to B and C and outline the purpose of the meeting.

14:34 B interrupts me to explain that this is not really their area of expertise and we should probably grab A for this type of thing.

I remind them that A is not available and they respond with a head wobble. C suggests I speak to another guy ('D'). B excuses himself from the 'meeting' and goes to fetch D. 

14:35 I'm left in the room with C. He seems to have settled in quite well; this man who was not invited to this meeting in which he has clearly stated that he has no place.

C starts to run through a list of Indian food items that I have never heard of and checks which ones I have tried yet. Each time I say 'no' he gives a detailed explanation of the item and how it is cooked and where is the best place to buy it. I start lying and he is impressed.

We shift things back to work topics. C gives me some background about what he's doing here on the project. Out of politeness, I ask him an innocuous question about his work on the project and he replies that he is probably not the best person to answer it. C suggests that, luckily for me, another guy ('E') can answer this. I try to tell him that it's not important and not relevant to this meeting, but C is already on his way out the door to fetch E. C ya later!

I'm alone again.

14:45 B comes back with D.

D turns out to be the person I needed to meet all along. 

He seems quite busy yet still quite happy to spend an hour or two with me. Or maybe even three. Time appears to be in plentiful. I start to introduce myself to D, including my background and reasons for this meeting.

14:47 C comes back with E and interrupts my introduction. He introduces me to E and I politely suggest that we will get to that topic later, reinforcing the purpose of this meeting.

C and E seem happy with this and each find a comfortable seat at the table. 

For the next 10 mins or so, D is involved and engaged in the meeting (and clearly the right person). C and E listen intently and seem interested. I wonder if they maybe were meant to be here and it feels like the madness of Lear is descending on me.

14:58 D asks me a question about my report and, as I begin to respond, he gets a call and answers it.

While D is on his call, I to turn to E and let him know this meeting could go for a while, possibly a couple of hours, so perhaps I could catch up with him later rather than keep him any longer? 

He asks me to firstly give a brief overview of why I needed to meet him in the first place. I turn to C, who is playing with his phone and not listening. I politely mumble some made-up ´reason´ before we swap numbers and I promise to call him back this afternoon.

15:00 D is now off his call. We continue the meeting and it actually becomes very productive.

16:10. I make a fatal error: I ask D the wrong question and he tells me that he probably isn't the best person to answer this as he gets up from his seat. I try to wave him back, but he ignores my hands and continues by suggesting that I need to be introduced to ´F´, who I absolutely need to catch up with. He gives me the details of F and promises to chase him up. As I try to stop him leaving I notice a shrill, desperate tone in my voice.

D leaves with assurances of sending me some documentation and to hold tight while he finds F and sends him to the room. At least I think that's what he said because he was mumbling and I was in distress.

I take stock of my day. I haven't quite finished what I needed to at the 10am meeting but have been abandoned in the room, having promised to wait for F before eventually calling back E for a reason neither of us knows.

16:20 I check again with the secretary about this missing courier. He will definitely be here by 17:00, she tells me. She will grab me when he comes, as I should remember that I will need to pay him and get a reference number from him.

I do some emails and avoid contacting E.

17:00 No one has turned up at any point to ask me what happened to the other 3 meetings that I lined up that day. I keep working on my report by what is now a mountain of unsubstantiated assumptions.

17:02 I check on the courier. I am told that he was supposed to be here by now but is probably running a little late.

18:10 I check my emails again and see that A has scheduled a meeting with me for this Monday, at 10:00am, at the other side of town. 

I see that another meeting has also been scheduled by A on Monday. It has identical details and attendees but is set for 15:30. A passing stranger pops her head in to tell me that A has gone home and his phone is off probably off so I might need to wait until Monday if I need to speak to him.

18:15 The secretary pops her head in the office door and wishes me a happy weekend. She tells me while I am writing an email that she has booked a taxi for me at 18:30 so that I can head home. I finish typing the sentence and look back to ask her about the courier but she is gone. I run to the door to see an empty hall.

18:16 It dawns on me that the courier is not coming and that, even if he does, he will not be able to contact or find me.

18:40 I get an sms from the taxi company, giving me details of a car and driver and informing me that they will be picking me up at the front at 19:15. I explain that there are separate 2 front entrances to this building and she assures me that the driver will find me in any case.

19:00 I get an sms from the PA telling me the cab is coming at 19:15. I ask her by return sms about the courier. She tells me he will come Monday morning now.

19:25 The taxi is not here. F never came. E never returns the call. The security seems to have left. I sit in the dark lobby of an abandoned building and wait for my cab on this, my first work day of 2009. I am alone.