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30 September 2009

Our Days And Our Nights

"Woody Allen Signs Petition to Free Roman Polanski"

Oh, Woody; I really don't think you're helping.

You married your daughter.

Then again, I doubt that David Lynch fares any better. Wikipedia describes his style thus:

"Beaten or abused women are also a common subject, as are intimations or explicit mention of incest and sexual abuse (most of his films)."

Who next? Charles Manson?

Oops. I just realised what I said. Where's my manners? That may have been in bad taste. Sorry Shazza.

I meant to say Charles In Charge. Go and get Charles in Charge to sign your fucking petition, Roman. I'm not promising that he would be any less scary than your other mates. But I do miss his theme song. It still pops into my head from time to time.

29 September 2009

Jogjakarta

Knowing how close the Jakarta bombings were to my heart (and my hotel), I've been keeping myself up to date with the investigations.

Nevertheless, I found this latest article completely shocking. I couldn't believe it.

It details how highly organised and structured these bombings were "... funding, recruitment, spiritual guidance, welfare officers for jihadi families, and others who were assigned such tasks as securing explosives, looking after transport, making videos and acting as couriers and messengers."

That part was fine. Stock standard even.

The other part was not. The part where the suicide bombers were going jogging during their final days.

Jogging?

Whatever for?

The benefits from jogging are not immediately felt. It can take weeks (or even months) to feel the positive results from jogging. It can even weaken you in the short term with sore muscles. Or a bleeding toe.

When, exactly, were they expecting to reap the benefits from this exercise regime?

Imagine if a giant asteroid was going to hit earth in 5 days and we were all going to be killed. We've all imagined what we would do in our final days. Panic, sure. Alcohol, definitely. Debauchery, probably.

But jogging?

A lot more people have put a lot more thought into this than me. There are countless films about Armageddon events. There are traffic jams. Blackouts. Kids with dirt on their cheeks clutching stuffed toys. Black Presidents. White looters. A mandatory wealthy old retired couple serenely drinking tea on the porch of their beach house.

But never, never, someone putting on a tracksuit and going for a run.

Why would a suicide bomber - someone with a clear deadline - decide that the final days leading up to his fireworks display was the time to get fit?

What sort of a sick bastard could do something like this:

"Oh my God! We're going to die! Only 1 day left! Tomorrow! What will we do??"

-- "How's about a 5k run?"

"Sure. I've been feeling like bit of a fatty lately."

I don't think I like terrorists any more. They scare me.

The Milkmaid's Tale (Part Evil)

I've been meaning to write about the Evil Milkmaid for some time. As each day brings more to tell and the task feels insurmountable. So much split milk under the bridge. So much to tell. Where to start? Where to end? The longer I leave it the more daunting it gets.

I am like an 8 year old wandering aimlessly around a messy bedroom.

Today I was thinking about the film Memento, where the main character develops anterograde amnesia and needs to rely on present events to reconstruct his past.

So that is how I'm going to explain the Evil Milkmaid. Provide just enough information about the present day events for you to slowly (and painfully) reconstruct this painful past.

A kind of Groundhog Day. That is, if Groundhog Day had an unhappy beginning and an unhappy ending. And no nauseating Whatsherface in it.

Back to the Evil Milkmaid.

Senior executives of large companies in Vietnam nearly always come from rich, connected families. This is true socialism - where poor business acumen, work ethic or experience are no barrier to promotion.

You start with an arranged marriage. Combine it with a big house. Stir in some high-ranking government connections. Add a dash of overseas education. Bake slowly for 12 years in an air-conditioned office and ... Ding! You're at the top!

Ergo the Evil Milkmaid is very senior in my company.

This means that she needs to sign-off or approve things. Lots of things. Including lots of things I need to do.

I have been forced to work with her in a number of areas. I'm her only potato underling and she hated me from the get go. She has consistently obstructed or objected my attempts at working with local clients. I didn't recognise this as racism at first but it didn't take long. (She's an Evil Milkmaid, remember, not a Subtle Milkmaid.)

She has a huge amount of confidence and power, neither of which is supported by ability or aptitude. In a professional sense, the Evil Milkmaid has little idea about what I do. She has no absolutely no experience or knowledge in my area of expertise. Neither do I ... but that's hardly the point. I'm not the one stopping me.

When I go to her she often. Just. Stops. Me. Deadinmytracks. She won't approve it. When I ask why, she usually says I don't understand the Vietnamese people or Vietnamese business culture. When I ask for more information or help on this front, she will typically tell me to go away - that she's too busy to answer my questions.

I am not talking about the impression she leaves me with. I'm talking about the actual words she uses, eg:

"Go away please Anthony - I'm too busy to talk to you."

Seriously.

That's why she's evil.

A couple of weeks ago the Evil Milkmaid went on leave. Now I know what it feels like to be the prison Bitch whose Daddy had been granted an early parole.

I was able to set my own direction on dealing with clients and made some good decisions.

Last week I had a series of meetings with a new client which went swimmingly. On the Friday I did a large presentation to the CEO which was very well received.

When the Evil Milkmaid heard about this she was pleased. She smiled as she repeated the positive feedback that she had heard from my colleague and the client.

Because let's get this straight. The Evil Milkmaid is not. And nor will she ever be. Warming to me.

She needed me now. She realised that I could help meet her sales targets for the year.

The next couple of times I talked to her about this client she was quite friendly, albeit through a strained smile. As we talked about "next steps" or "sales strategy" she would occasionally brush me on the arm. Vietnamese people can be a bit touchy when they like you, even at work, but this did not feel genuine or warm. This felt more like a paedophile testing his boundaries.

Moving right along though.

The Evil Milkmaid has an accomplice. In my head I call him Gay Gordon. He is neither Gay, nor Gordon. In fact he is a devout Muslim with an English accent who also seems to hate white people. The Evil Milkmaid loves him. (Or should I say, needs him.)

My disobedient mind gave him this nickname quite early on in our relationship. I don't know why, but probably because both of these words would repulse him: Gordon is so whitebread. Gay is so ... umm ... gay.

So I call him Gay Gordon under my breath and smile. Sometimes when he's talking, I imagine him awkwardly dancing at a céilidh. And smile.

This week I've been sitting close to the Evil Milkmaid's desk. Yesterday afternoon I overheard a phone conversation between her and Gay Gordon that went like this:

"Yes Anthony did his presentation to them last Friday."
[Pause]
"Oh no. No. They were actually very impressed with it."
[Pause]
"Yes Gordon. Yes I am sure."
[Pause]
"No. Very happy with Anthony. No Gordon I am sure. Because checked with them ..."
[Pause]
"Me too. I am surprised, too. I think maybe he is learning. Learning finally."

Well ain't she just the best Evil Milkmaid a cow could ever hope for?

Mooooooo!!!!!!

27 September 2009

Stick That In Your Pyramid

Yesterday morning I went to my usual street stall for my usual breakfast: a warm, hearty, freshly-cooked bowl of phở bò. All you have to do is sit down for a few minutes and your meal arrives. They only cook one thing and they cook it well. Henry Ford would have approved.

I arrived late morning and it was not busy. The staff were having an early lunch in advance of the next rush.

There were very few customers at this time so most of the condiments at my table were flyblown, even the bowl of lime segments and fresh chilli. However, New Me is a pragmatist who knows that Pho is cooked at high temperatures. New Me has never been sick from eating anywhere in Vietnam. New Me waved the flies away as he sat down and waited for the Pho to arrive.

The owner was sitting on a stool, eating pieces of fruit which had been cut up and piled next to the chopped raw meat (the ). As each customer arrived she would get up to prepare their meal by using her hands to measure and toss the right amount of meat, noodles and vegetables into the boiling stock. These hands also regularly carried food to the tables, cleared the tables, took money, gave out change and grabbed another piece of fruit on their way back to the stool.

I finished eating and went over to pay my slightly turgid bill. This was accompanied by an established ritual where I smilingly exclaim my approval "rất ngon" ("very delicious") in Vietnamese and she repeats it back twice, noddingly as she hands me my change.

Today she also picked up a piece of fruit and offered it to me with an emphatic straight arm. This piece had clearly been marinating in a shallow pool of raw meat juice at 35 humid degrees for some time.

What does one do in this situation?

Does one pretend to be very full and gently decline?

I'll tell you what one does.

One accepts it.

Immediately, gracefully and gratefully.

I smiled, thanked her again, accepted the bleeding toxic fruit and took a demonstrable bite out of it. I chewed enthusiastically. It tasted bland, like raw potato with hints of blood. I pronounced that this, too, was rất ngon and she agreed again.

I asked what it was called in Vietnamese. She told me. I repeated the word back. She corrected me firmly. By now 4 people (2 staff, 2 customers) had stopped what they were doing in order to watch.

I tried again to pronounce it. 5 people laughed. I assumed that I'd once again used the wrong tone or vowel and said "cunt". It's always cunt. All 5 people corrected me this time, in an awkward unison that sounded like an echo in a tunnel.

My next attempt was more successful and I was permitted to leave. I promptly took another public bite of my toxoid, forgot my new word and walked to my bike.

This got me thinking about Abraham Maslow. Maslow dictated that people will prioritise their needs and choices based on a particular hierarchy. In order to aim for higher needs, you first need to satisfy the lower levels.

Given a choice between the two, people will satisfy their lower-level need first. It makes perfect sense. For example if you were starving to death you would look for food first and pontificate on whether contemporary American literature is painting an accurate picture of working class homosexuals second. (Poppy Z Brite is not huge in Darfur.) Oh, and if you were busting to go to the toilet you wouldn't care whether or not your President was black.

But if this particular experience taught me anything, it is that Maslow had never been to Vietnam.

As this proprietor handed me her toxic piece of fruit she was also handing me a choice between Safety (of health) and Esteem (respect by others). I chose the latter in a heartbeat.

25 September 2009

The little piggy that cried "Wee! Wee! Wee!" all the way home

My September 11 disaster was not an isolated incident this month. I also managed to lose my running shoes at sometime during the past month. Somehow. Somewhere.

It probably happened the last time I went to the gym. That was the visit which started with a run on the treadmill and ended with 2 bottles of red wine and a couple of packets of sour worms. It is an accomplishment to arrive at a gym sober and leave drunk. An unworthy accomplishment.

I have been evicted from so many shoe stores in Hanoi that I didn't bother trying. The eviction usually goes like this: walk in the store, greet the shopkeeper, try to read their giggling smile, ask them if they have anything in your size, hear a gentle "no" as they show you the door. I waited until I was in Kuala Lumpur to buy some new running shoes. I figured that Kuala Lumpur has enough potatoes and tall Malays for me to find good footwear in my size and it did.

Last Monday my new running shoes and I eloped to the gym. My shiny new bride, wrapped in white tissue paper.

On arrival I realised that I had left my socks at home and would have to go without. Just one time without protection won't hurt, I told myself. Don't even think about using this as an excuse to go home, I told my fat self.

After a few minutes on the treadmill my right little toe was hurting from the friction of running. So I stopped, tied my shoes more tightly and continued. After 10 minutes it started hurting again but I ignored it. After another 10 minutes it became much worse so I stopped.

I looked down to see that the right side of my new white shoe had turned a dull pinky red colour. Blood had seeped through the shoe from my bleeding toe. You can use this as an excuse to go home, I told my fat self.

When I got home I was tempted to hang it from the balcony and proudly yell "virginem eam tenemus!". I thought better of this and rinsed it in the kitchen sink. With cold water.

24 September 2009

Things That End With "itney"

Last weekend I watched the Oprah-Whitney interview.

Whitney: overdressed, overstyled, raspy. Measuring out her life story in even doses.

Oprah: fine, fat, fantastic. I prefer my Oprah with a bit of plump. She's more humble; less smug. More empathy. Less sympathy.

My favourite thing about Oprah, though, is how she can bring herself to the brink of emotional breakdown on cue. Her ability to well up is not just remarkable ... it's Meryl Streep remarkable.

Oprah knows when she should get that point, how to get there, how long to stay there, and how to bring herself back. And no matter how close she goes to the line, she never crosses it. Michael Hutchence should be so lucky.

Alternatively, it's possible that she just brings along a knife and a bag of onions: chopping vigorously off camera in key moments. Either way, she knows what she's doing. You'll never find Our Oprah swinging limply from a coat hook.

Back to the interview. Most of it was pretty boring. It was the usual schtick ... divorce fame highs lows career success control pressure motherhood blah blah blah.

It became more interesting when we got to Whitney's very candid and revealing drug stories. She has obviously done a great job of fucking up her voice -- and much her life -- through years of abuse.

This goes to show that you should never name a child anything which ends in "itney". That includes Shitney. Also Clitney.

Whitney recounted her years of freebasing and speedballing and blowing and snorting and snowballing and sprinkling and I was impressed by her accomplished use of drug street slang. But as the interview wore on, I became more and more unsettled by the interview. As I listened to her drug experiences I could feel the dull ache of my own. My drug past is nowhere near as extensive and destructive as Whitney's, but there were some similarities that I could relate to.

I'm not sure where this ache came from, but the more she talked the worse it got. I couldn't work it out. Guilt? It wasn't guilt. That wasn't it. Regret? No. It wasn't even remorse.

Then I realised. This was not an ache. This was a longing. This was envy.

By the time the interview was over I was so jealous of Whitney that I was squinting.

23 September 2009

A bit gassy this morning.

Delivering gas. The hard way.


21 September 2009

Grass Ski Vietnam (Part 1)

It's now about 48 hours since I went to Grass Ski Vietnam.

The decided it would be Saturday - from 8am to 5pm. 


I spent Friday trying to wriggle out of it with a story about needing to work this weekend. To give the story some grunt, I roped in R. Besides, he didn't want to go either so was a willing (if cowardly) ally.

R (like me) is inherently evil but his conscience (unlike mine) is wobbly. He started to convince himself:

R: "Well actually we do have a lot of work to do this weekend anyway don't we? Actually?"

Me: “No. We’re lying here. Plain and simple. Don’t try to paint it as anything else. That would be dishonest."

R is not on his way to the Oscards any time soon but he's all I got. I am MacGyver and he is my blade of grass and a stick.

Our hostess pulled out every Skype trick in the book. 

babybee: NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. If u can't go, u will be pecuniary. DADDYYY. U must goooo!!!!!

Yes she is really called babybee. Yes she often calls me Daddy. There are very disturbing reasons for this; for another time when I'm ready. Gotta hand it to her, though: "pecuniary" is strong out of the blocks.

babybee: the restaurant already buy the food to make the party, including u dd

dd stands for Daddy. A Skype emoticon is pending.

Then this:

babybee: if u're so busy, u can bring ur laptop
babybee: i think there's internet

[Of course she had no way of knowing this.]

Then came the winning blow:

babybee: you need fresh air and activities for old potato like you.
babybee: i think activities will be in the morning. you are old daddy. you need fresh air and after lunch, we will play card or karaoke ...

No wonder these people haven't lost a war.

A compromise was reached and in the end we wangled a ride with H, who is notoriously late and usually willing to leave early.

H was about 90 minutes late, which was a very thoughtful gesture.

I added to this theme by suggesting places to stop along the way: firstly for breakfast, then later for a double entendre.

Au Phuc! We're running late! And it's all your phault!

During the trip I thanked H profusely for giving us a lift and for taking the blame when we are 2 hours late. He smiled and laughed but I don't think he understood.

We finally arrived. We were heroes, actually. People thanked us for making such an effort to come when we were obviously so busy with work. We lapped up this praise, like kittens, and blamed H for being late.

As for the grass skiing ... I took one look at the place and chucked a sore knee.

They believed my lie. Illness or injury is highly respected in Vietnam, even if minor or imaginary. A sore knee is right up there on the social hierarchy with primary school teachers.

Minor injury draws people from across the room with sandwiches, dried beef snacks and beer.


Major injury, on the other hand, attracts much less attention. Same with death. Get knocked off your bike onto a highway and commuters will honk impatiently as a new desire line weaves its way around your rotting corpse. Not a sandwich in sight.

About 4 weeks ago I saw my first dead body. I was riding along Yên Phụ (aka "Slow street") on my way to the gym. I got to about here and all of a sudden the traffic started banking up. It left us (me and my informal motorbike gang) wriggling and edging forward to see if we could get through.

The road was blocked but we squashed forward. But it still felt like progress, like a queue at a concert before the gates have opened.

For the next 20 minutes I inched slowly forward (it's amazing how far you can travel by sardining). I could see that there was a large circle of people, about 5 deep, staring into an empty space of about 3 metres diameter.

The crowd was gormlessly staring into the middle of this space. Toddlers and teenagers were on tippy toes and old people were leaning out of windows. They were completely motionless, like they were attempting a giant Sudoku.

The dam walls burst and we started moving again. As I inched past I looked over some shoulders (the advantages of potato height) and saw a man lying there on his back. He was next to his motorbike, inert. His eyes were closed and there were some baskets nearby - the type of basket normally used for carrying fruit on the back of a motorbike.

No one was attending to him. No one seemed alarmed. They just stood there staring, motionless, as if a mass hypnotist had died midway through his act before saying the magic word.

I found this all quite disturbing at the time. I couldn't understand this scene at all and didn't get involved ... it felt numb and sad - at the time and again now when I recall it.

Back to GSVN (Grass Ski Vietnam). The minute we arrived I realised that this was no run-of-the-mill Funpark. This was the type of funpark that only Socialism could create. The type of funpark you see in a budget horror flick.


The grass ski field itself was more of a long, gentle incline than a slope. Gentle only on the way down, because ski lift:

1. You arrive and walk up the hill before realising you need to go back down to collect your boots and skis.

2. Strap on the boots. If you are a potato they will be a couple of sizes too small. Or so I was told.

3. Walk slowly up with your skis in 42 degree heat. It takes about 15 minutes to get to the top because the skis are not at all equipped for walking and an alternative (eg carry them up) is neither suggested by the staff nor evident in your fellow skiers.

The Fun. The Park. The Funpark. I wasn't exaggerating.

4. Turn around and spend 60 risk free seconds gliding back down to the bottom. Maybe 45.

5. Take off the boots and return them.

The owners of this park already know that there is no danger. Or fun. Or danger of fun. It's evident from the moment you select your boots.

And so the poor dog had none.

Before lunch we were treated to a series of games based on running about the room waving balloons. We looked like disoriented toddlers and I kept my eye out for a parcel. 


The boss was sitting on a chair, enjoying the games like a thin Nero. I asked him what was going on. He shrugged his shoulders and said he didn't know. I offered him a beer and he pointed at his throat. Sore throat. Respect.

I started to think there would be game of musical chairs coming up so found one to sit in. I slowly eased myself into it. Sore knee.

Afterwards we were served a delicious meal in the restaurant.

Chicken head aficionados were not left disappointed.

During the meal we indulged in loud and vigorous (bordering on violent) beer cheersing. This was mostly initiated at 5-minute intervals by a ruddy ringleader.


Stay tuned for Part 2.

20 September 2009

New week's resolutions

1. For the past month I've been telling myself that R's bike has more storage than mine. That if I had a bike like his, I could keep my training gear in it and go to the gym every day. That I would go on my way back from work. So I borrowed his bike last week as a pilot. On the weekend I had to admit that the pilot had been pulled before it was ever aired. (I gave him a look which was somewhere between shame and sheepish but deep down I really didn't care ... I just wanted the bike for another week.)

So this week I need to do run the pilot. Again. By having more junk in the trunk, I will wind up with less junk in the trunk. The irony.

2. Book my Bangkok Botox Bisit. The internet has already guaranteed me total facial paralysis for under $150. I see no reason for the internet to lie so I will do as it says.

If all turns out well, I will continue making regular "little trips to Bangkok for work". I will even tell people in the office that "I'm going to Bangkok for work" with a po po poker face. If all doesn't turn out well this time, I will tell them I have Bell's Palsy.

3. Become more annoying at work. I'm going to start by using this.

4. Stop taking Valium to sleep. There is no reason I should be taking Valium every night. There's plenty of Xanax in the fridge.

I should be cycling more often (a different type of cycling than Resolution 1).

5. Drink white wine on my balcony at sunset, mainly because this is what it looked like yesterday. (This Resolution is only allowed on the same day that Resolution 1 has been successfully followed.)
Yesterday

6. Arrange Vietnamese lessons again. Hoa has been dumped recently due to my travel, then due to my potato visitors. Then due to more travel. This week I'm bringing her back.

This week when she laughs at me for making a mistake, I will laugh with her. If that doesn't work, I will naively mispronounce my new vocabulary words so that they sound like other, offensive Vietnamese words I already know.

7. Start the new diet which I invented last Friday while on my way to work in a cab (refer above to Resolution 1 to explain why I was in a cab).

I'm only going to eat things that I don't like, eg order things on the menu which contain seafood or mushrooms. I know that this diet cannot fail, so expect that it will.

8. In Vietnamese the word for cat is mèo and it is pronounced the same as we say "meow". (Cute, eh?)

The word for meat is Thit and it's pronounced "tit".

There is a restaurant near my house which advertises "Thit mèo" out the front. This means what you think it means. So if Resolution 7 fails, I will go and order a meal from said restaurant. This is a personal threat to myself which should keep me on track with 7.

9. Babysit my potato colleague's cats when she goes away for a few days. This is completely unrelated to Resolution 8.

10. Be proactively friendly towards The Evil Milkmaid. This Resolution will be the hardest of all. I haven't told you about The Evil Milkmaid yet because I've been saving it up. I'll tell you this much though: she's evil. And another thing: she's a Milkmaid. I think we understand each other right?

Being nice to the Evil Milkmaid will slowly kill me from the inside. If morality had lungs, this would be equivalent of smoking cigarettes.

11. Ask the old potato that I work with more questions about when he was here 35 years ago, serving as a soldier in the US Army.

His perspective is very interesting ... he says that Vietnam changed his life in terms of returning home bruised and focused to "make something" of his life.

He is doing a lot of volunteer and fundraising work whilst here ("I want to give back as much as possible to this country"). People in our office are still mean to him though, which is nice because it's not just me.

12. Be nice to the lovely staff at the Highlands Cafe on Ly Thuong Kiet when they fuck up my order. Because they will fuck up my order. Even though I give the same feedback every morning.

If you mispronounce "thanks ladies" it comes out as "thanks dickheads". I've done it before and they have giggled at my innocent gaffe.

This week I will not be giving any further criticism. I will simply call them dickheads as I depart and we will all giggle - each thinking the other is a fool. My victimless crime.

18 September 2009

Such a Lonely Word

There is a certain brand of honesty in Vietnam that I am becoming addicted to. It hurts, but it hurts good.

Last week I managed to be out of the country long enough to get my hair cut. I came out of it reasonably unscathed. My expectations were met even if my hopes were not.

R's journey is different.

R's favourite (ie only) hairdresser did such a great job on his first attempt that my earlier opinion of Hanoi hairdressers was called into question. Not for long though. All subsequent attempts could only be described as vandalism.

Last weekend R also went for a hair cut. He was about 80% of the way through when he realised it wasn't going well. It was too late to do anything. He was at the Stockholm Syndrome stage of a bad hair cut ... where you have to abandon all hope and start psyching yourself into a new head.

At this point the owner casually walked past him and stopped and smiled and said - and I quote:- "When you walked in today you looked handsome but now you look ugly." Yes! He actually used the word ugly! And yes! The owner! R stayed glued to his chair, a pillar of salt, while the owner moved on to another happy customer.

Ah ... socialism ... just imagine if this guy owned a dress shop which catered to plus-sized women?

Later that evening, R went to his local bar. Tung (he of the "Hitler" fame) walked up to R and said: "Before you had longer hair and you looked very handsome. Now your haircut makes you look stupid." Medusa sat there stunned for a moment while Tung moved on to another happy customer. Luckily it was Vietnamese belly dancing night so the feeling passed when the music cranked up.

Later that evening Tung told R that he was his best friend. Go figure.

14 September 2009

Comment dit-on en français "ditch"?

What is it with people these days? You kill a couple of hundred of them on a plane and all of a sudden they can't handle a harmless aeronautical prank.

This story gave me a little bit of "been there done that".

Déjà vu, if you will.

13 September 2009

Cinderella

I arrived in KL with only one shoe. The other one must be still in Jakarta.

This is not just any shoe. It comes from my favourite pair. Puma, by Jil Sander. I bought them in New York about 4 years ago for $295, at a store called Jonathan (I think), on W 14th St (I think). They have never aged or dated.

I told B about this on the phone and his first reaction was "What did you take and where did you go?".

I told M about this at work and his first reaction was "Ah ... yes ... my Grandfather used to regularly return home from the Serviceman's club wearing only one shoe".

How can I describe how it feels to have all this respect? 'Blessed' comes to mind.

I checked my bag 3 times to be sure.

Oh I know. I'm sorry. This is really boring. But I'm just so disappointed. I need to let it out. Bottling this up inside, burying it deep, covering it in a layer of beer ... it's too dangerous. Who knows when or how it will come out? I can imagine myself 65, one day suddenly putting on bright red pumps and heading off for the train and never realising why. Never even realising how the pumps got into my cupboard in the first place. This is known in consulting as a 'suboptimal outcome'.

This was not misadventure by valium. Or drinking. This was poor packing.

I packed this bag on the evening of 9/11, which would be the morning in NY time. This date is now responsible for two significant New York related tragedies in eight years.

Drag Me Away (Please)

I've just heard SuBo's new single and I like it. I really like it.

I'm so ashamed of myself.

12 September 2009

Four Grand in the Hole

5 star hotels breed a special strain of Stockholm Syndrome that preys on seasoned business travellers. Outside work hours they don’t venture out from their hotel room, their luxurious prison cell. The standard cells like an overfurnished cell inhabited by a tranny serving life for murder. She who has spent many years resourcefully redecorating her cell with the random spoils of her lot. The suites on the executive floors are more like the type of cell that Mike Tyson occupied. Either way, give in to this syndrome and Room Service becomes your bitch. The Wake-up Service becomes your Vinegar Tits.

So I often go out to restaurants by myself.

[Cue violins.]

I don't often feel like a loser ... only when I' m been relegated to a table near the toilet; or overlooked by the wait staff. It only lasts about 10 minutes though, as I've either gotten used to the toilet trail or complained the other problem away.

I’d still rather sit at the bottom of the restaurant food chain than be rotting in the tranny cell. I don’t mind eating alone but I hate the boredom of being alone. So I always ensure there is a book, laptop, document or phone to keep me company.

This brings me to last night. I was sitting at a bad table in a great reastaurant, working on my laptop until the meal arrived. When it did, I put the laptop aside and started shoveling red wine and satay into myself. I no longer had a free hand (cave man that I am) and was left to my own thoughts. This time my thoughts wandered to my grandparents. All of them.

I don’t think about them very often but I haven’t forgotten them.

Resurrecting them all together like this made me feel both sad and warm. Possibly it was the wine (sad) or the chilli (warm) but I think it was me.

They're all long dead by now.

These grandparents were always going to die on me, of course. It was their lot. I remember being a kid and looking at my grandparents with a mixture of love and suspicion. I think they looked at me the same way but the years would have taught them not to think about it like that.

But even as a toddler I somehow understood that they were … well … kind of on their way out.

Ours was a friendship with an expiry date. The date wasn’t disclosed but its terms and conditions were clear. They would be going first. Both of us knew It. And neither would have wanted it otherwise.

So here we were, co-conspirators staring across at each other from opposite ends of life’s chronology.

As far as I was concerned though, these were not normal people . They were a breed of grey-haired humans with unironed skin. I imagined them hearing our car pullling into the driveway, causing them to quickly crawl from of their laundry basket and out the back door to wave hello. No time to iron.

This cult was brimming with kindness and stories, of course. Its members had a patient yet confident view on most topics, whether they chose to share it or not ... and they functioned and participated in life ... all the while slowly and knowingly being drawn to their deaths.

They talked about themselves as children and I would think to myself” ‘How could this old person have once been a child, like me?’ I accepted their childhood stories but could not completely commit to them. I believed them in same way that I believed the universe was infinite – it has to be true but it doesn't seem quite right.

Sometimes their story would crop up from nowhere and be told so naturally and easily that I suspected a rehearsal or script was involved. I being very young and trying discretely (mid story) to spot some hidden cue cards. My eyes … narrowing, disobedient and beady … darting sideways in the hunt for clues. This predated the stage when I wondered whether all the people around me were paid actors and part of some elaborate hoax. I’d forgotten all about this until I read a book a few years back where someone described having these same childhood theories.

Back to the dead people.

I didn’t go to the first 3 of their funerals. For two of them I was overseas. For the other one I had to play in a tennis tournament in Wollongong. Spent the admission money (and the afternoon) playing pinball at a parlour in Wollongong, in my tennis whites. During that afternoon, and the months following, I wondered about my consequences from Heaven. The fact that I didn’t believe in heaven was irrelevant. I wondered if she could see me smoking, or swearing, or wagging school and what she would think. Mind, it didn’t stop me doing them. Just made me wonder.

Back to the dead people.

I enjoyed taking time to remember them, collectively and individually. These are the four people who are responsible for my DNA, even though I don't think I turned out to be much like any of of them. However, if I lay down and allowed each of them to reclaim their own part back out of me, maybe there would be nothing left?

These are the four people who made me. Maybe they are all still inside me. Maybe I am their Sybil – without the bedwetting or carnal outbursts. I prefer to think of it more like Charlie Bucket’s house … with four dormant old people sharing the one bed, occasionally interrupting.

Maybe I don’t miss them because I still have them.

[Cue Gene Wilder]

Later on I sat down and tried to remember things about each of them and will post each of them separately. Most of you can stop reading now. Go away and think about your own grandparents (the ones you knew) for 15 minutes. You won't be disappointed.

The First Grandfather.

I don’t know why we called him Grandfather. No other name was ever suggested. It certainly wasn’t considered posh and nor was he. He wasn't a Pop though. A Pop is something which springs out of a box,.

I knew him the least out of all the grandparents and spent less time with him than the others. But I also remember being constantly curious about what he was up to. If there was a group of people, it was usually him whose movements I chose to track. His unlikely stalker.

When I hear the word farm I think of him. I have never thought of him as a farmer. I have always thought of him as a farm.

Very short and very thin. His hair was extremely white and thick with no evidence of pattern baldness. Lucky duck.

The reason I thought lungs were two huge sacks which get filled with air. He’s only got one lung, they said. The other was taken out years before, they said. Cancer, they said. Amazing fitness for a man with one lung, they said. How could an old man like that let us in through the front gate and then run up the hill beside our car as we drove to the house, they said.

Referred to the pigs as his “piggies” and was very fond of them even though he killed and ate them. A strange relationship. He used to brew this pig slop on the fire in the loungeroom. It would be cooking all day and all night. You could smell it on arrival and it made you feel a bit hungry. Look inside the pot and it didn’t look like anything. It smelt of bacon - actually not really bacon; more like ham hock - and I used to wonder whether he was feeding them their own. They didn't have a choice though - much like a porcine version of the Rugby team's tragedy in the Andes.

When he was a postman in the 1930’s he earned £4 per week.

As long as I remember he slept in the enclosed verandah of the house. When we came to visit, Pete and I would sleep (and fight) there and he was sent back to the marital bed. He once came to intervene in our fight while I was stabbing Pete in the forehead, a heinous (but non-veinous) attempt at lead poisoning.

Reheating Grandma’s cooking (uninspired frozen meals) long after she died. 3 years long.

Calling Grandma “Mother”.

Probably not a good farmer because he had decent land and no money.

A recovering alcoholic who never admitted the problem. This is how I learned that true alcoholics are often skinny. Beer only puts on weight to the hobbyists. The stalwarts stay rail thin.

Always off doing something, but not often around the house.

Us going “into town” to put on bets for him at TAB for him. Returning back to the farm to see him in the verandah, listening astutely to the “wireless” as it played in the Verandah or elsewhere. The radio playing in the verandah. Only horse races.

He owned shares in a horse - a trotter which I think sucked up lots of time and money but never won a race. He looked like a thinner, poorer version of Tommy Smith

Once everyone went down to Melbourne for a horse race he was associated to. We didn’t get to go, but I remember thinking how glamorous it was for the adults to be going interstate for a function. I remember Cheesel packing her gold, black and white slack suit.

Most of his children hated him deep down for what he used to be, but still looked after him to the end.

Seeing his eyes well up with tears when the colour TV was unveiled during their 50th wedding anniversary. I thought at the time that Grandma was genuninely surprised but that he already knew that something was a-brewin'.

Whenever a foreigner asks me whether we have different accents or dialogues in Australia, I use him as an example. The last time I saw him. We dropped in for a visit in the middle of the afternoon. He was still in his pyjamas and in bed.– a stopover on my way to Perth – I couldn’t understand a lot of what he said except for the part where he told me not to marry a coon “like Bob Hawke’s son did”. And I never did. Can’t say the same for him.

Being a world-class shot with a 22 rifle. Hitting ducks in mid flight, right in the neck. I think that this was a fluke but it was repackaged as a rare skill.

He knew his rabbits. How to kill, how to spot miximetosis, how to skin one quicker and better than anyone, how to cook them (with bay leaves). He would tell us – ernestly – that Kentucky Fried Chicken would occasionally use rabbit and not chicken. He could tell.

Used “Tricia”.

Was “unbeatable” at tennis via a particularly fierce back spin that made the ball hardly bounce. Never saw any evidence of it and never understood how it could be done but used to practice ... my ticket to Wimbledon.

Retained the outdoor “drop” dunny years longer than they needed to. It was a lonely walk out there at night to that infested little shed and I can still recall the stench of human excrement that it exuded.

As a younger man he would come home drunk and use the same whip on his children that he used on his dogs. Looking at him now, you couldn’t believe he was a cruel father. But I believe he was because some of this behaviour weaved its way down the family tree and into my childhood.

Did he put rope around his pants to keep them up? I think so.

I think that education and opportunity would have created an entirely different person.

TransAmerica

This one's a keeper.

11 September 2009

Different Strokes

I had an important meeting in Jakarta this morning and arrived last night.

Like most of my meetings in Indonesia, this was finalised with very short notice. This meeting was with a very, very senior marketing executive in a large organisation here. So it required a lot of preparation on the flights, the transit and in the hotel. I actually walked to SQ966 with my bag slung over one shoulder while my laptop was open and cradled in the other arm so I could read my notes while I was walking.

Woe is me.

My Indonesian colleague and I were the presenters. He's a notoriously tardy person, especially in the mornings. Even his local colleagues joke about his reputation for lateness ... quite an accomplishment in a country that is already running late for everything.

He's more of a night person I suggested that we meet up in the evening after I arrived. A 9pm meeting is OK by him.

I tried contacting him on arrival at the airport, from the cab and on arrival in the hotel. I couldn't get through to him for the next 1 1/2 hours, until finally he answered the phone.

He was out, he hadn't been sure my arrival time, he wondering anyway why haven't I called him until now? He suggested we should try 7am in the hotel breakfast room.

Me: "7 am? Are you serious?"

-- "Yes of course!"

"Come on! You don't have a 7am bone in your body. I know who I'm talking to."

-- "Mate we need to prepare."

"Yes but I don't believe you can make it. We have a lot to do. Let's make it 7.30. Can you commit to arriving at 7.30? On time? We will have enough time before we leave at 9.15 for the client office."

-- "OK. Fine."

"Promise you'll be on time?"

-- "No problem!"

"OK. I'm counting on you."

-- "OK. See you then. Man you worry too much. You're in Indonesia now so just relax ..."

I turned up at 7.28.

He turned up at 9.00. Maybe 9.02.

For the next 5 minutes (maybe 3) he gave me a lot of good suggestions for what we could have done in preparation if we'd had time to work on it together. We left at 9.05.

I teased him later why he was late. This time. He said he had a big night in a massage parlour, which is where he had been when I spoke to him last night. He had run into some other colleagues from work. I asked some leading questions based around the massage parlour metaphor and he answered using other metaphors and some eye rolling. So I retreated out of fear of what I would find out, then got brave and asked some more questions, then retreated again, then asked, then retreated. I was like a small dog testing whether the hissing cat is really going to strike.

In the end of all that I'm not sure if we were talking about a blowjob or a handjob. But I knew we were talking about a job. Someone was doing their job last night. And it wasn't him.