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18 March 2009

Direct insults of the day

Edwina, my Australian colleague, is chatting with one of our Vietnamese clients.

Her speech is a combination of baby talk and eager-but-staccato-slow-to-the-point-of-condescending speech. I think she sees them as them as friendly natives.

A few quotes from her:

"So do you speak Chinese? Oh No? That's right, yes yes. Because the Chinese invaded you didn't they?

"Do you speak French? No? Well they were here, too, before, also. They stayed until you fought them - fighting them - and they run away." [I kid you not. At this point I was just sitting there, mouth agape, no longer typing my own document but typing out this dialogue in total shock.]

"But now you speak English very good, right? You learn English a long time? Even though you fight to get the Americans out. And you win and they have to leave? But you still learn English now."

"Everyone wants to move here to Vietnam and you need to fight them to go."

-- For fuck's sake, Edwina. 

Backhanded insult of the day


"You speak good English ... when you sing."

-- said by my Australian colleague, to one of the locals in our meeting, when he hummed a few notes from a song.

Oh, but what a journey it were, Pip!

"Nothing shortens a journey so pleasantly as an account of misfortunes at which the hearer is permitted to laugh."
-- Quentin Crisp



I have now been brushing my teeth in Hanoi tap water for 3 weeks with no ill consequences. This journey could go one of three ways: 

1) Using tap water to wash down my morning vitamins; or
2) Implementation of a similar initiative when I'm in Thailand; or


17 March 2009

Засада: the sequel

Well, I've received several more messages now and will be decrypting them over the weekend.

All I need now is to find an outfit that will blends nicely with the Siberian landscape.

Happy St Patrick's Day. Cheesel I hope it wasn't green undies again.

Hinterhalt

Засада, or "zasada", is the Russian word for ambush.

I can now say that I am being spied on by Russians and it's all very 70's Zhivago Cold War realness.

Yesterday some new people from the client's HQ in Moscow arrived, without warning, to run our project. In one day we have already received a bunch of vague questions and mixed messages and I'm yet to work out what they mean.

Last night when I was asked to attend a client meeting in hte evening. I arrived in the boardroom to see the Russian CEO, Russian CMO, Russian CIO, Russian COO, two Russian consultants and one Vietnamese local (clearly a double agent).

They sat me down in a central chair across from the CEO. He smiled, leaned forward and said "So, Tony, tell us how your workshops are going ...".  It was such a silly cliché but at the same time too scary to giggle about in the moment.

I leaned back and maintained eye contact. I resisted the urge to ask for a cigarette and a phone call. I tried to quickly guess his agenda and took a deep breath. I decided to take the "you probably think things arre not progressing well" assumption and launched into my spiel: "Well it's perfectly natural to feel a bit anxious at such an early stage of the project ...". 

Take your Засада and shove it up your arse, Boris.



16 March 2009

Arriving back at the hotel

Being greeted by the uniformed Hilton Commissionaire as my colleague and i arrive at the hotel and he opens the taxi door for us:

-- "Good evening sir ... Oh ... You two don't look so good."

Dinner Fears

I'm sitting in a very boring workshop presentation behind a very boring colleague who is also Australian.

Oh no. Now she's taken off her shoes, hiked up her skirt and is sitting while hugging her knees to her chest. She's also interrupting questions to the presenter by providing her own answers in excruciatingly slow English that is more condescending than useful. Like yelling at deaf people.

We have a team dinner tonight and she contaminated the previous dinner by going through that day's work events again, and again, with obvious insights and inaccurate retellings, banal pontification and embellished-yet-still-dull anecdotes.

I live in dread.


15 March 2009

Insight of the day: weight.

No matter how much I weigh, I will always be aiming to lose 5 kg while secretly hoping for 8. Fact.

14 March 2009

Learning Vietnamese I think I'm learning Vietnamese I really think so.

While I admire her honesty, Our Claire is clearly not a student of marketing ...


Claire, Saturday morning

Hi Anthony,

Thank you for attention to my classifieds.
About your question :
- Do I have qualifications? No, I don't. I'm a student of Vietnamese National University , specialized literature.
- Do I have a formal lesson plan to follow? Yes, of course. I use a formal lesson from Academy Press and Propaganda.
- What's my rates for private lessons ? $6/hour

If you are really want to learn but you aren't sure about me ( I know, of course ) You can try 2 times, it's demo lessons ( free ). And then, you can decide you want to continue or not. Anyway, this is my first time I teach Vietnamese.
So, sent me one mess if you want to try, my number : 0934.68.54.53
Have a good day !
See you !

Claire

===

No sex no drugs no wine no women no fun no me no you no wonder it's dull. (Where did that come from?)

My secret Darling

When registering for my mobile phone account, the Secret ID Question options (in case you forget your password) are as follows:

- What is your mother's maiden name?

- Name of your first childhood pet?

- What is your darling’s name?


Oh derr Fred. Nancy.

Oh, and someone comes to the office every month to collect the money for the phone bill! I'm a bit nervous about our first meeting and am planning to wear my favourite silver tie and new white cufflinks.)


Floral tribute


the flowers ...









... and the bath full of wrapping paper they came with





12 March 2009

Top dollar, bone lazy.

Me, Monday evening
Hi Le Minh
I am moving to the French Quarter soon. I am a single person, looking for cleaning, shopping and sometimes cooking but not always.
Could you please tell me your rates and your hours available?
Thanks
Tony

Minh, Wednesday morning
Hi Anthony,
Thank you for your letter , I can work from Monday to Friday(From 2p.m to 6p.m).
My rates is about 1,5dollar/hour.
Can you tell me what you want to do in how many hours ?
Hope you reply soon.
Thanks,

I don't think I am ready to go through with this.

10 March 2009

I'm speaking English from now on. Fuck 'em


===

Me, Saturday morning
Subject: Vietnamese language lessons

Hi there

I am newly arrived in Hanoi. I am working here and interested in Vietnamese language lessons.

Please contact me if you provide these or know someone who can.

Regards
Tony


===

Anh Ngoc, Sunday morning
From: Anh ngoc

please give me somemore information about you, thanks!

===

Me, Sunday afternoon
To: Anh ngoc
Subject: Re: Vietnamese language lessons

Which information do you need?

I work in downtown area and will be moving to an apartment in Westlake.

Due to my work hours, I cannot commit to formal classes so I need lessons privately in the evenings and weekend days. Please send me your rates or call me to discuss lesson plans.

My phone number is below.

Regards
Tony

===

Monday morning
From: Anh ngoc
Subject: Re: Vietnamese language lessons

which information? any information, any information that is enough for me to trust you. You think I can easily meet a stranger like you in evenings? It's crazy. I need something safe. You see? I'm just a girl. Who knows what can happen? So that's what I need.

==

I am tempted to respond back and ask her what she's wearing.

 

09 March 2009

The food is great and all, but it's amazing how friendly the locals are


These people seem nice, don't they?

Me, Friday evening

To: Thanh Xuan
Subject: Vietnamese lessons

Dear Thanh

Your company is listed as providing private Vietnamese lessons in Hanoi. I am living here and looking for basic tuition.

Preferably this would be evenings and weekend days: one lesson per week. Please advise me your availability and rates at your earliest convenience.

Kind regards
Tony

===

Thanh, Saturday morning 
From: Thanh Xuan
Subject: Re: Vietnamese lessons

No we do not supply this service anymore.
Bye

=====

Me, Saturday evening
To: Thanh Xuan
Subject: Re: Vietnamese lessons

No problem. Could you please recommend anyone?

===

Thanh, Sunday morning
From: Thanh Xuan

thanks
But now we are not available.

===

Me, Sunday afternoon
To: Thanh Xuan
Subject: Re: Vietnamese lessons

Can you please tell me the name of any other teacher?



===

Thanh, Sunday afternoon
To: Thanh Xuan
Subject: Re: Vietnamese lessons

No.




27 February 2009

Pho' Ga

My first attempt at a Vietnamese breakfast this morning at the Hilton buffet. Granted it's no street stall, but we all gotta start somewhere.

I ordered a chicken pho (pho' ga) for breakfast from the uniformed sous chef at the Egg Station. He does omelettes, fried eggs and pho' ga.

The Ph is an "f" sound. The o is like ö in German. Or œ as in œfs as in French, which explains why the Egg Station makes a good fit.

So pho' is pronounced like "fer". As in "Oh ... fer fuck's sakes, Cheesel!".

The "ga" is like in "ga ga", but halved. Or like "gaaarn", as in "gaaarn Cheesel ... one more durry can't hurt".

So it's fer ga.

It made for a better breakfast than I had anticipated. Even the extra chilli worked.

Pho doesn't pair nicely with coffee, mind. I blame the coffee.

26 February 2009

Emergency Ditching

I have just arrived in Hanoi so not much yet to say about Vietnam.

On the plane, about 30 min before landing in Saigon when we would normally be preparing to descend, they played this announcement:

"Attention all passengers. We need to perform an emergency ditching. Please return to your seats immediately and remain calm."

She had a dulcet English accent with a calming timbre that demanded "Please people. No need to panic or scream. Just keep yourselves together as long as possible. Because before long you'll be torn from arsehole to breakfast."

I looked around this fairly empty flight and made eye contact with some other passengers. We communicated via a series of eyebrow raises and taciturn shoulder shrugs: outwardly trying to appear nonplussed while inwardly doing the survivor math and wondering when the oxygen masks were going to appear.

A couple of minutes later the dulcet English accent had been replaced by a clipped Vietnamese woman:
"Dear passenger. Execute me. We play wrong message. Thank you."

"You're fucking welcome." I mumbled under my breath while mentally unfurling myself from a self-styled brace and she continued her message with a "Please prepare for landing."

23 January 2009

Not stirred

Pune, Maharashtra, India.

My last night

I am sitting alone in a really nice restaurant which was recommended by a colleague. 

By "alone" I mean that this is not just my table for one but a restaurant for one. I am the only customer in this entire restaurant.

A coaster with the restaurant's logo is sitting on my table has a picture of a Martini that says "Royal Orchid: shaken, not stirred."

There was no martini on the cocktail menu so I beckoned the waiter and pointed to the coaster. He squinted, leaned toward the coaster and started to crouch as if he were looking for a small stain.

I helpfully repeated the order with a "Could I please have one Royal Orchid?". He stared blankly at my face as he repeated the words "Royal Orchid" twice, slowly, and it began to feel a bit serial killery.

I stopped him repeating it a third time with a "No. No problem. I just want to know if you have martinis?". He said he didn't know so went off to the bar to check. A few minutes later he came back with a broad smile nestled under his broader mustache to proclaim that, yes, indeed, yes, they did offer martinis.

I order a vodka martini with an olive:

Him: "A side of olives?"
Me: "No, the olive is on a toothpick in the martini."
Him: "Side of olives and some toothpicks?"
Me: "No, just an olive for the martini, it is on the toothpick."
Him: [puzzled] "So olives, yes?"
Me: "No. No olives. Please ask the bartender for a classic vodka martini. Classic Martini. Vodka. Classic. CLASSIC MARTINI. Normal. Classic. Normal."
Him: "Certainly, sir."

10 minutes pass before he returns to the table and gingerly places a bowl of olives in front of me. Not a good sign.

Another 15 minutes pass before he comes back with a full martini glass on the tray. I notice the liquid is quite cloudy. He sets it down and I notice 4 black olives submerged in the glass, clinging for dear life onto a plastic blue swizzle stick that is clearly intended for a piña colada.

I pull out the swizzle stick to try one of the olives and it oozes oil, or brine, or some other liquid that is not vodka, back into my glass. I taste the olive and it's revolting ... so I quickly remove the swizzle stick and lay its hostages on the table.

I taste the martini itself and it's incredibly sweet. As in 3-shots-of-lime-cordial-and-1-shot-of-vodka sweet. Actually I can't taste any vodka but assume it must be there. 

The waiter sees me wincing through my first sip and comes over as I put down the glass.
Him: "You like your drink, sir?"

Me: "Umm ... no. Not really. This is not a martini. Don't worry though ... it's fine. Just please tell the bartender for next time that you need green olives. Not black olives. And also it's got something like lime cordial in it. It shouldn't have lime cordial or juice or anything sweet like that."
Him: "Yes, lime cordial."
Me: "Martinis are not sweet. Martinis have no sugar."
Him: "Yes. Not sugar. Lime cordial"
Me: "Please tell the bartender no lime cordial in a martini"
Him: "Thank you, sir. Is the cocktail to your liking?"
Me [pauses]: "Umm ... yes. Yes it is. Thank you."
Him: "You're very welcome, sir" 

I am completely stumped, so go back to politely sipping my martini. This is customer manipulation at its finest.

02 January 2009

Happy New Year from Quadrants 3 and 4

I stayed at the Taj Hotel, Mumbai, as a new year treat to myself. It was their first week opening after the terrorist attacks and they seemed tense. Tense and heavily armed.

– – – 

Thursday, 1 Jan 2009

I have to work today because I am a contractor with no holidays. I decide to stay at the hotel and an extra night have booked a car to leave at 7 to guarantee that I am not late to a very important meeting at 10.

In any case, our project is so busy that everyone said they will have to come in on Friday as well.

The Taj concierges assures me that Mumbai's notorious traffic will be subdued tomorrow because "so many people are staying home for the long weekend, so the trip will be a maximum 2 hours and a half."


Friday, 2 Jan 2009, my first work day of 2009

06:55 I check out and they give me the driver's phone number. I call him and he says, 'Oh yes, no problem Mr Anthony, welcome to India, I am there in 5 minutes'.


07:10 The driver has not arrived. I try calling him again, twice, but he does not pick up. I assume he is parking.

07:14 Driver arrives and goes through the extensive security at the Taj rather than just calling me to come out.

07:17 We leave the hotel and set off for Pune.

07:18 We drive around the corner and stop to get petrol. I wonder why the he had waited until I was in the car for this event. (Do I need to pay? Should I tip someone? Should I get out and help?)

No help is needed from me.

07:23 Driver stops at a public urinal, those ones where the barrier is at chest height and offers the public the vista of a row of heads. I wonder again why he had not managed managed this before picking me up.

08:01 We stop for a coffee break. I don't need a coffee and didn't ask for one. I wonder again why he didn't just ... never mind. I think I'm getting the hang of this.

08:28 Driver stops on highway and gets out and turns his back to me. No explanation is provided in advance but his motive becomes obvious when I spot a stream of piss heading across from his body to what is best described as an al fresco urinal. 

09.55 We arrive at the office. I am just in time for the meeting and run into the building.

I sign in at the lobby using a special book called 'CONTRATORS'. As with every other morning in 2008, my sign-in process is supervised by a friendly, thin, moustachioed man who helpfully reminds me (tapping gently on my hand with a disappointed smile) that I am left-handed.

10:00 I seat myself in the meeting room. No one has turned up early so I am the first to be seated.

10:15 No one has turned up.

10:25 Still no one. I check my Outlook calendar invitation and the attendee confirmations before heading out in search of my posse.

10.29 I find one of the invited people ("A") and ask if we are still having our meeting. A wishes me a Very Happy New Year! and asks all about my trip to Mumbai. He continues with a few follow-up questions and then offers some observations about life in Mumbai. A seems in no rush to discuss or join the meeting so I eventually interrupt him to remind him, again, that we have a 10 o'clock meeting. He looks officiously and sternly at his watch, feigns shock, tells me he will go and get the others 'straight away' for our meeting and heads off.

10.32 I return to the room to wait.

10:40 No one has turned up.

10:55 Still no one.

11:00 Still no one. 

I abandon the meeting and return to my desk.

I remember that I need to send some documents to the other office so rush out to book a courier. The secretary helps me with this and tells me she'll give me a shout when the courier arrives ... and that it shouldn't be long. 

I ask her for a rough estimate and she smiles as she wobbles her head assuredly, offering "In some time".

11:50 I find A walking past my desk. 

More small talk ensues, this time about my stay here in Pune ... whether I have seen much in the area, possible sightseeing options for the weekend, and then of people in Calcutta that I could contact if I decided to go there (I have never mentioned Calcutta so assume he is originally from there).

It is as if our previous encounter this morning had never happened. 

I remind him about our 10am meeting and ask when we could have it. He says very confidently "I will go and get the others now" with a slight head wobble on 'others now,' but no stern look at his watch this time.

We agree to reconvene in the original meeting room so I head back there to wait.

12:20 I'm still in the meeting room, alone.

12:30 No one has arrived so I duck out to check on the courier. 

He should be here by 2pm, I am told.

I make a mental note that some time means 3 hours. Indians use special words for numbers, like Lakh for 10 thousand and crore for 10 million, so why not some time for 3 hours?

12:57 Someone walks into the room and I feel elated. 

"B" greets me with a "Hi Anthony. Happy New Year!"  He remains standing as he launches into some more small talk about Mumbai and Indian food.

After a couple of minutes I find a gap while he draws breath and use it to remind him of our 10am meeting. He counters with ´Let's have the meeting at 2pm. We will go through everything then´.

13:15  I go back to my desk and fill in my time by typing and looking busy in that honed manner of a consultant on a day rate with no work. 
 
13:58 I return to the meeting room for my 10am 2pm meeting.

14:15 No one has turned up.
 
14:20 "C" walks in and introduces himself. I've never met him before so our small talk takes on an elementary flavour: I am from Sydney, arrived last Sunday, yes I do like Indian food, no it's not too spicy, no I haven't had a chance to go to the nearby waterfall yet, yes and thanks for that advice it's a great idea.

He tells me that B is on his way and suggests that we should wait here in the room. I realise that C is not on the meeting attendee list but am thankful that he came anyway.

14:25 I dash out to tell the secretary where I will be when the courier arrives and to ask what is taking him so long? I am told that he should be here by 3pm.

14:30 It doesn't seem like B is coming back so I start the meeting by introducing myself to the sole attendee, C, by covering my background and reasons for the meeting.

14:31 B walks in and interrupts my introduction to announce that we can now start the meeting. 

I ask about A. He mentions that it will just be C and him, as A is not in the office at the moment because he "has to be somewhere else". I ask where, and why, but I can't understand the mumbled answer and don't want him to repeat it all again; we've wasted enough time already.

B assures me that we should start ... that it won't be a problem as we three can cover everything.

14:32 I feel a mild sense of exhilaration as our 10am meeting kicks off.

I introduce myself again to B and C and outline the purpose of the meeting.

14:34 B interrupts me to explain that this is not really their area of expertise and we should probably grab A for this type of thing.

I remind them that A is not available and they respond with a head wobble. C suggests I speak to another person, D, who is not on the original attendee list. B excuses himself from the 'meeting' and goes to fetch D. 

14:35 I'm left in the room with C. He seems to have settled in quite well; this man who was not invited to the meeting in which C himself has just confirmed he doesn't belong.

C starts to run through a list of Indian food items that I have never heard of and checks which ones I have tried yet. Each time I say 'no' he gives a detailed explanation of the item and how it is cooked and where is the best place to buy it. I start lying by using 'yes' and he is impressed.

We shift things back to work topics. C gives me some background about what he's doing here on the project. Out of politeness, I ask him a polite follow-up question about this irrelevant (to me) work that he is describing and he replies that he is probably not the best person to answer it. C suggests that, luckily for me there another person, E, who can answer this. I try to tell him that it's not important and not relevant to this meeting, but C is already on his way out the door to fetch E. C ya later!

I'm alone again.

14:45 B comes back with D.

D turns out to be the person I needed to meet all along. 

He seems quite busy yet still quite happy to spend an hour or two with me. Or maybe even three. Time appears to be in plentiful. I start to introduce myself to D, including my background and reasons for this meeting.

14:47 C comes back with E and interrupts my introduction. He introduces me to E and I politely suggest that we will get to that topic later, reinforcing the purpose of this meeting.

C and E seem happy with this and each find a comfortable seat at the table.

For the next 10 mins or so, D is involved and engaged in the meeting (and is clearly the right person). C and E listen intently and seem interested. I start to think that they might even have value being here with us a clear sign that the madness of Lear is descending on me.

14:58 D asks me a question about my report and, as I begin to respond, he gets a call and answers it.

While D is on his call, I to turn to E and let him know this meeting could go for a while—possibly a couple of hours—so perhaps I could catch up with him later rather than keep him any longer? 

He asks me to firstly give a brief overview of why I needed to meet him in the first place and it feels like he is blaming me for wasting his time. I turn to C, who is playing with his phone and not listening. I politely mumble some made-up reason before we swap numbers and I promise to call him back this afternoon.

15:00 D is now off his call. We continue the meeting and it actually becomes very productive.

16:10. As the meeting is coming to a close, I make a fatal error. I ask D a side question and he tells me that he probably isn't the best person to answer this as he gets up from his seat. I try to wave him back, but he ignores my hands and continues by suggesting that I need to be introduced to F, who I absolutely need to catch up with. He gives me the details of F and promises to chase him up. I try to stop him leaving and notice a shrill, desperate tone in my voice.

D leaves with assurances of sending me some documentation and to stay in the room while he finds F and sends him here. I think that's what he said: he was mumbling and I am in distress.

16:20 I check again with the secretary about this missing courier. He will definitely be here by 5pm, she tells me. She will come and get me when he arrives because I will need to pay him and get a reference number from him.

I do some emails and avoid contacting E.

No one has arrived at any point today for the other 3 meetings that I had scheduled in this meeting room for this afternoon.

16:30 I keep working on my report using a combination of the 10am meeting results and a mountain of vague assumptions.

17:02 I check on the courier. I am told that he was supposed to be here by now but is probably running a little late.

18:10 A passing stranger pops her head in to tell me that A has gone home and his phone is probably turned off so I might need to wait until Monday if I need to speak to him.

I check my emails again and see that A has scheduled a meeting with me for this Monday, at 10am, at the other side of town. Same topic as today. I see that another meeting has also been scheduled by A on Monday. It has identical details and attendees but is set for 3.30pm.

F never came back.

18:15 The secretary pops her head in the office door and wishes me a happy weekend. She tells me that she has booked a taxi for me at 6.30pm so that I can head home. I look up from my laptop to ask her about the courier but she is gone. I run to the door and see an empty hall.

18:16 It dawns on me that the courier is not coming and that, even if it does, they will not be able to call me or find me.

18:40 I get an call from the taxi company, giving me details of a car and driver and informing me that they will be picking me up at the front at 7.15pm. I explain that there are separate 2 front entrances to this building and she assures me that the driver will find me in any case.

19:00 I get a text from the PA telling me the cab is now coming at 7.15pm. I ask her by return text about the courier. She tells me they will come Monday morning now.

19:25 The taxi is not here. The security seems to have left. I sit in the dark lobby of an empty building and wait for my taxi on this, my first work day of 2009. I am alone.