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05 May 2009

Who the Heller You Callin' Chickeny?

Today I went to a local street vendor and ordered Chicken and Rice. It was my third choice, due to the rule in Vietnam that potatoes are not allowed to be given their first choice.

The chicken leg was covered in so much orange sauce and I didn't realise for some time that chicken leg I'd been gnawing on was almost completely raw. I think my diet is about to get a kickstart. 

On the subject of chicken ... when you want to call someone stupid in Vietnamese you say they they are Gà lắm, which translates to "chickeny".  So if you think it means they are as dumb as a chicken, but "chickeny" is so much better. Such a great word I can't imagine being insulted by it.

Stay tuned for an update on my salmonella, which is being slowly digested. (I think I just felt it kick.)

04 May 2009

Potatoes Rise in the Heat

Yesterday R and I were in a software demo with two locals  (H and B). We have been working closely with them and they are quite comfortable using the word potato. 

We notice some errors in the demo, so H started writing an email asking someone to fix it.

Me: "Hey H - what are you writing there in Vietnamese?"

B: "He's writing 'Help me! I'm surrounded by two potatoes!'."

Like a Duck to Potatoes

People who are as childish as me are constantly trying to learn swear words in other languages. It's what we do.

However, according to Vietnamese people there is no bad word for "foreigner". And trust me ... I have asked many, many people. 

Every time I ask someone - after much prodding and nodding - I am given a new expression. It usually takes ages to learn, during which time I have sent away for the results and had them returned "benign". It goes something like this:

"What's a really bad word for a foreigner? Not a nice word. Just a slang word. One that people use against foreigners. A really bad word?"

-- "We don't have any words like that."

"Oh. Come on. I won't be offended. You must have something. Please tell me."

-- "Oh ... I don't know - maybe we say Blah-di-blah-di-blah."

"Is that the worst?"

-- "Yes that is the worst."

"How do you say it?"

-- "Aâêsewm qdêồôneyemôyer"

[... time passes as I practise the pronunciation ...]

"What does Aâêsewm mean?"

-- "It means foreigner."

"What does qdêồôneyemôyer mean?"

-- "It means bad."

"Bad Foreigner?"

-- "Yes."

"You've just taught me to say 'Bad Foreigner'". 

-- "Yes."

Is that the worst word you could think of?"

-- "We don't hate foreigners. We don't have bad words like that."

The person above who taught me how to say Bad Foreigner also told me earlier that the Chinese are poisoning the Vietnamese food. We were mid meal and he came out with:

"You know the Chinese are poisoning the North Vietnamese?"

-- "I don't believe that."

"It's true. Especially here in the North. It's very well known. It is in the food. They are trying to poison the Vietnamese through the food."

-- "Oh well ... [raising the chopsticks to my mouth] . I'm not Vietnamese so I'm don't have to worry."

I find it a little hard to believe that in a country that suffered 6 wars spanning 43 years, 3 major subsequent guerrilla wars, 21 years of division based on western interference ... and over 5 million fatalities from genocide and suicide and homicide and pesticide ... that they haven't come up with one bad word for a foreigner? Bullshit they haven't.

We have many terrible racist words for Vietnamese people, and Asians in general, and I probably wouldn't admit to them either.

Nevertheless, I think Vietnam needs its own nigger. And I'm the potato for the job. I'm taking the word "potato" to the masses.  It's khoai tây and I don't know how to say it but it doesn't matter. Firstly, they love it. It requires no explanation or pronunciation corrections. Secondly, they remember it almost immediately and embrace the nuance of the meaning. Thirdly, it goes well with pejoratives. Beautiful potato doesn't sound right. Nor does thin potato. But fat potato is perfect. As is ugly potato, or old potato, or stupid potato. 

Indeed, we learnt a new word last Friday when it was paired with potato. I used the dropped the word khoai tây into normal speech. My colleague corrected me:

"Khoai tây thối."

--"Khoai tây ... what?"

"Thối.""

-- "Thối? What does thối mean?"

"Something that smells ... stinky. Stinky Potato. You are a Stinky Potato"

-- "Oh. Umm. Thanks"

03 May 2009

Burnt Sim

I don't agree with the author. I think everyone should try this at home.


01 May 2009

Warning Signs


This is the first page of the menu from one of Hanoi's best restaurants. Bobby Chin is supposed to be Vietnam's Jamie Oliver. The food is fantastic but many other things in the restaurant are out of whack for a fine dining experience. For example, we sat next to a large military-style painting which showed someone in the middle of snapping the neck of a blindfolded soldier. I think Bobby is paying too many people to laugh at his jokes: his menu wording is just plain silly.


Next up, this sign sits beside the cash register at my local supermarket. If you want to pay by credit card, you need to play a little bit of Vietnamese Deal or No Deal.


This from the third floor of a bar on Truc Bach lake. I think it's pretty clear what they expect to happen in the toilet.



This Week's Lessons


A few things I learnt this week:
  1. If you don’t pronounce the word “beef” correctly you will accidentally say “mistress”. For the past 7 weeks I have been ordering Mistress Noodle Soup for breakfast. 

  2. If you don’t say “I would like to go ...” correctly you will be saying “I can go fuck myself”. For the past 5 weeks I have been getting into cabs after work and saying “I would like to go fuck myself at 56 Xuan Dieu St”.

  3. If you ask your colleague to teach you swear words he will teach you words which have no meaning. This is his way of ensuring you don't swear. When you eventually point this out to him ("Hey you told me I could say 'Meh Met' but that doesn't mean anything") he will smile and nod and say "This word has no meaning in Vietnamese". He will then teach you a replacement word which, after another week, you discover also has no meaning in Vietnamese.

  4. As a rule, Vietnamese people are not able to understand your attempts to speak their language. There is one exception. If you refer to yourself a fat potato you will always be understood. They will also find it funny and true. This reaction will occur within any context and no matter how bad your accent. The most common reaction will be for the recipient to point at your stomach while nodding and laughing while repeating "yes, fat potato" a few times.

  5. If you learn to ask for "no sugar" when ordering coffee, this translates to “please don’t add sugar but go ahead and add an inch of condensed milk ... please ensure it lurks there silently at the bottom of the cup until one of my final gulps releases it in a manner that makes me panic, gag and nearly fall off my plastic chair”.

  6. If you try to say “I am fat” while ordering no sugar and no condensed milk they will agree, point, laugh and nod while secretly adding both to your coffee.

  7. If you don’t say “pig” correctly you will accidentally say “cunt”. For the past 4 days I have been learning how to say “I have the cunt flu”.

  8. Never ask anyone how to say anything in Vietnamese. You will be taught stuff which is completely useless, has only ever been used in that person’s immediate family and cannot be understood by anyone else. "Yes I understand but we don't say it. Don't say it."

  9. When you get into a cab you only have 20 seconds to say what you need. After that, you cease to exist. Potatoes who attempt to speak to the driver mid trip do not exist. Potatoes who are traveling with their Vietnamese colleagues will find that while the colleague is allowed to speak to the driver to clarify directions and addresses ... if the potato attempts to get involved in any way he will be completely ignored. These rules are strictly applied, even if said potato is the only one who knows the right address and has it written down.

29 April 2009

I Saw Goody Pig Flu Dancing with the Devil

The Swine Flu should be here in about 3 hours. It is probably standing at the luggage carousel right now and the Vietnamese government will take 6 months to admit that it has arrived. By that time we will all have it.

This afternoon I went shopping for piggy food to eat during the flu: mostly comfort food and a few veggies that respond well to deep frying. Can't wait. 

I just read this tragedy from Australia:
"A total of 35 Victorians have now been tested for influenza."

Firstly, the real tragedy is that it should be "has been tested", not "have been tested". Secondly ... I mean ... it's Victoria ... so I couldn't care less. 

Since the WHO increased the severity level today, CNN has also been going nuts. Anyone with a sore throat and a Mexican accent is getting a go on the tellie ... I just saw a clip with this woman talking about when she was sick last year:
"... and now I am thinking it was probably Swine Flu because I could feel it up here in my chest ... and I was wheezing and had a fever ..."

LAST YEAR!

Oh, and I am not going to call this the Swine Flu. It's the Pig Flu. Pig.

28 April 2009

oOo´¯`°¨·.¸ oOo ¸.·¨°´¯`oOo

Fat Fuck

I went to the SOS International Medical Clinic last week to get my burnt leg seen to.  It's quite dangerous to have any kind of open wound in all this humidity and heat, with a huge risk of infection and possibility of tropical disease type bacteria as well or weird worms or pernicious viruses. Or so I keep telling myself.

I first was seen by a French doctor who was kind and friendly and whose English was fantastic. I was clearly not her first muffler burn:

- "Oh yes. The motorbike burn. I have one too."

I decided that I would only show her my left leg, which is the worst burn.  I was too embarrassed to admit that I had two burns, which occurred across two legs and two motorbikes and less than 5 seconds.

She tssssked quite approvingly at my burn before parading me in front of two nurses: one to clean the wound and one to silently supervise. I was introduced to as "motorbike leg" and they knew exactly what this meant: another fat potato who doesn't know how to ride a bike.

La Docteuse took me back to a waiting area while she popped into her office to take some notes. I noticed the sign above her and smiled.


After carefully bandaging my burn, each of the nurses showed me their own burn scars and made me feel like a local. And it felt a bit dirty. At least until the $150 USD bill jolted me back to potato reality.

On my way out I stopped by to say good bye to Fat Fak. Ie worked a sleeping pill prescription into my thank you's and bade my farewell.

27 April 2009

The Forest from the Trees

In Vietnam most people's names have at least two meanings. The first meaning is normally stuff like dragon, equality, intelligence, flower and the like. The second meaning is turning out to be far more interesting and I have becoming a bit annoying in my quest for knowledge. 

At the restaurant last night:

"Nhong. Is that your name? Nhong? What does Nhong mean?"

-- "It means flower. A special flower [points] ... like this one. But not yellow. Dark red."

"Rose?"

-- "Yes. A rose. But not yellow ... red. Dark red. Dark red rose."

"What else does it mean?"

-- "Nothing. Just a flower."

"No other meaning?"

 -- "No. Just red rose."

Bullshit, I think to myself ... I bet it means washing machine; or tampon.

15 minutes later Lâm came to take my order:

"Lâm? How do I say that? Lââââm. 

-- "Yes.  Lâm. Correct."

"What does it mean? What does Lâm mean in Vietnamese?"

-- "It means forest".

"Forest? Oh. Forest. Very nice. Does it mean something else in Vietnamese? What is the other meaning?"

-- "Many trees."

"Oh."

The Socialist Surgeon General

As part of my work permit application I need to have a medical from an approved clinic in Hanoi, of which there are two. In addition, Work Visa Medicals needed to be conducted by a Vietnamese doctor. It’s the law.

I booked in last Thursday. The first part of the medical involved a very friendly nurse laughing at every result: blood pressure; pulse, height, weight, eyesight. She giggled as she wrote down every result, which I found to be quite alarming. After the first couple of giggles I attempted some meek enquiries: “What? What? Is everything OK?” to which she chuckled “Yes. All OK.”

The second part involved a blood test and a privacy waiver. On the waiver, just before my signature, was the following warning: “If you are HIV positive this may create problems for your Vietnam visa, as well as in your general life.”

I was then sent for a chest xray, then a tap-the-hammer-on-the-knee-and-nod-sternly inspection from Doctor Gioung. Then I was released back into the wild.

Later that afternoon when I was back at work I received a giggling call on my mobile: "Hello? Hello? Yes this is Anh. You forgot to give urine. Please drink lots of water and come back."

Cool Flower

"Sorry - what was your name again?"

-- "Hoa"

"How do you say that?"

-- "Hoa ... Hoa ... with flat tone ... HHooaa"

"Hoa ... Hoa ... like this ... HHooaa? That's a lovely name. Does it mean anything in Vietnamese?"

-- "Yes. Two meanings. The first meaning is flower."

"Oh. That's very nice. What's the second meaning?"

-- "Second meaning is air conditioning"

"Oh."

26 April 2009

Effective Fairy

I bought some tea last night at the supermarket. It's called Dieu Tien Dieting Tea

When I got home I looked up Dieu Tien and it means "effective fairy". So I knew I was onto something.

Luckily, the effective fairies who make up the Dieu Tien empire have had the foresight to provide translated instructions with their tea. So I brewed a cup of tea and settled down to read them.

Firstly, the side of the box lists the following "Benefiicial effect"

- "Fat reducing effect for merely obese people"

Merely obese. The target segment is those people who are just plain fat. Not fat and interesting. Not fat and intelligent. Just fucking fat.

 Tick.

- "Effect in People in tendency to become fatter"

Tick. 

There is a brochure inside the box with more information and recommendations, starting with this:

- "After more than 1 month of drinking Dieu Tien Dieting Tea, your appetite will be increased. You should keep an appropriate food regime for ensuring a well proportioned body."

I start to fear that these effective fairies don't define the word "diet" the same way that I do. A desire to eat more is not really the outcome I anticipated. Then this:

- "While taking Dieu Tien Dieting Tea, beer drinking should be restricted, and user must not abstain from any kind of food."

Having recently switched to wine, I find this instruction very suitable indeed. Moreover, after having now tasted this bitter brew it's reassuring to know I can add sugar or honey. But that's not all:

- "Women should take Dieu Tien Jasmine Tea for keeping their good looks."

That's one hell of a cross-sell message. Is there anything these effective fairies can't do? 

Apparently not, according to Section 4:

"4. Expansion of using scope

"Dieu Tien Dieting Tea is also very useful for the following people:
"+ People with weak liver, especially patients of hepatitis B
"+ People with high blood pressure
"+ People with lipidemia
"+ People with hemotothermal status
"+ Constipation"

This tea can do anything. It seems too good to be true ... and I'm starting to sip faster and faster until the final section makes my heart sink and my cherubic optimism starts to dwindle.

"Supportive Exercices". There's the rub. Those sneaky fairies are about to slap me with so much exercise that any accusation about the tea's abilities will be defended by them pointing at a fly-blown treadmill.

I spoke too soon. Yes there was a rub, but not as you know it.

"Every day when you get up in the morning and whenever it is possible, you should masssage your belly to facilitate the transformation of fat, thus raising the effectiveness of Dieu Tien Dieting Tea."

Now that is what I call a "Supportive" exercise. And you only do it whenever it is possible? What a fantastic bunch of fairies. I'm starting to realise that I didn't pick this tea after all. This tea picked me.  

At this point I am sipping away at my tea like a serial killer. The ones that wear knitted vests and spend their weekends sitting in the kitchen of their inherited two-storey house while sipping tea and looking out the window ... but of course not really noticing anything in their back yard ... because their mind is wandering into images that do NOT resemble an overgrown garden at all ... except perhaps for the final burial scene when they are digging a shallow grave in the thicket. So that's me ... sipping away distractedly ... albeit a little more legal but equally distracted ... as I imagine myself getting thinner and thinner with no effort ... while my final scene contains a victory weigh-in on the Biggest Loser and no shovels or corpses ... but I still nearly forget to read the final sentence:

"DIEU TIEN DIETING TEA IS NOT USED AS A SUBSTITUTE MEDICINE FOR CURING ANY DISEASE"

I'm afraid that on this point, dear fairies, I beg to differ.

25 April 2009

Potatospeak

Atkins Diet
The Atkins Diet is a period of time when the potato decides he or she doesn’t want any more potato in his life. They start hanging out only with locals, eating local food and hating anything which contains potato. When the diet fails (as it inevitably does) this potato bounces back with a vengeance. You often see lapsed Atkins Diet potatoes having lunch at Hard Rock Cafés.

Bubble and Squeak. 
Old, ugly potato leftovers who have found their second helping. Bubble and Squeak can be found throughout Vietnam and in nearly all dishes, one needs to combine an old potato with a young and beautiful local girl. This girl, while hungry, was not around for last night's feast so does not necessarily view the old potato is second hand. Following marriage and a series of interviews with Australian Immigration, B+S eventually becomes Potato Whip.

Fauxtato
A SE Asian person who studied overseas and arrives back home fatter, whiter and westerner. The fauxtato no longer likes local food, instead espousing a preference for hamburgers and imported beer. The fauxtato, who has forgotten their own culture, attempts to follow road rules by stopping at red lights and indicating when changing lanes. They are often spotted in late-night bars drinking Heineken and complaining about their fucking country in very poor English.

23 April 2009

Santa Baby Fish

Last week I learnt to say "How are you?" in Vietnamese, which goes something like:

Có khỏe không?

It roughly translates to "How's your health?" and is difficult to pronounce.

The first word requires a rising tone. So imagine you're asking God for something you really don't deserve. But you are interrupted right at the beginning of your requeste. Probably by a disgruntled Santa.

The second word is the sound you make when you're busting to go to a toilet break on a long road trip but there's nowhere to pull over. It's the same sound as the one you make when you tease a crying baby that you don't like. Take your pick.

The third sounds like a fish taking in a gulp of air.

I've been using this phrase extensively ever since ... Santa Baby Fish ... Santa Baby Fish. 

This required significant rehearsal before I took it on the road. I'm using it constantly with receptionists, my colleagues at work, taxi drivers, the security guys at my apartment building and with the mute laundry lady. In fact anyone who makes the mistake of pausing for more than 2 seconds in my presence gets one. At first I needed least 4 cheery attempts per recipient, but now I'm almost at the point when I'm being understood on the first or second attempt.

A couple of days ago I tried it out on one of my regulars at work and she gave me some feedback:

"You don't say that in Vietnam"

-- "Oh? Really? What do you say then?"

"I don't know. Just not that."

-- "But someone taught me to say it.

"Yes I know. It's right but we don't use it. You only say that when you think someone looks sick."

-- "Then what should I say?"

We normally say things like 'Have you had lunch?' or 'Where are you going?'. You don't know enough Vietnamese language for this. So just say hello to people. When foreigners come here from overseas they think Vietnamese people are very curious and nosey because we are always asking these types of questions when we see people. But the foreigners don't realise that we don't care. I'm asking you but I don't care if you've had lunch. And I don't care where you are going."

-- "You don't care?"

"No. we ask each other, but we don't care. I don't care if you've had lunch."

In the absence of anything else, I'm continuing to use the Có khỏe không partly because it's the only phrase I have, but mostly because I don't really care if they are healthy either.

21 April 2009

Trouble in Hell's Paradise

Hell's Potatoes is now an established VBG*. Unfortunately, its founding members are off to a rocky start.

R joined Hell's Potatoes with about 23 minutes more motorbike experience than me. But oh what an eventful 23 minutes it must have been, because R has all manner of experience and advice to share with me on any given motorbike topic at any given motorbike time. Don't lock the spokes, mind the muffler, don't worry about wearing thongs, leave the helmet here like this, no-no-no-no-no that's not the way to do it, lean here, careful with shorts, it's free to park here, your blinker your blinker, park like this not that, what the fuck just happened at those lights.

These condescending tips are not just annoying. They are also threatening gang harmony. R seems a little unclear as to who is the Alpha potato in this crop and is skating on very thin ice. Unless his behaviour improves dramatically he will find his membership card revoked quicker than Meryl Streep can throw a child at an SS guard.

This is places me in peril. Here is a recent example.

Last Sunday R warned me that the muffler on my bike can "get very hot" and to "be really careful". 

Derr ... I told him. I'm not an idiot ... I told him. It's not like I've never been on a bike before ... I told him.

What he didn't tell me, is to be very careful of this muffler when I park my bike outside a restaurant, especially when I don't do it properly due to my throttle hand getting twitchy and lurching the bike violently between R's bike and another. Nor did he tell me that his bike muffler also gets hot. Nor did he mention that if I tried to wriggle my body (and dignity) quickly out of this highly visible spot while wearing shorts and thongs, I may bump my left leg against my muffler and it would hurt. Or that as a reaction to this initial pain I might tip back over my seat and fall against R's muffler with my right calf. Or that now, with pain on both legs, I would stumble backwards through our two bikes and land on my arse in the dirt in front of the al fresco diners at - where else - Al Fresco's.


I went to the chemist to get something for my burn. I showed her the leg and reenacted the injury using a nearby bike. She shoved a tube of something in front of me (which I bought) and apologised for having no bandaids, bandages, gauze or related material. That is, if a non-chalant shoulder shrug with a blank face counts as an apology.

Moving on though ... Hell's Potatoes is starting to build it's own language. We are starting to speak in our own code, much like rappers and management consultants. I expect this means we'll be selling drugs soon. 

Here are some common terms.

Potato Salad
Any large gathering of potatoes, particularly when semi clad and in situations requiring immobility and lounging . For example, all around the swimming pool (and adjacent bar area) at the Sofitel Metropole last Sunday they were serving up a LOT of potato salad.

Mashed potato
A motorbike accident involving at least one potato. Often includes a muffler burn.

Baked potato
After a long day on the road, ie last Sunday, you lift up your t-shirt sleeve to find a sharp red line of sunburn.

Potato wedge
A manouever commonly seen when taking off from the traffic lights. It requires at least 2 stupid, fat potatoes  sitting beside each other on separate bikes at the front of the traffic lights. Both potatoes accelerate too quickly on green and get a bit confused about where each other is going. This results in both potatoes weaving back and forth in front of the traffic in a confused manner. In all the confusion the other traffic grinds to a halt, expecting at any time for a crash to open up the road. As a result, by the time the potatoes clumsily recover their trajectory, they have ruined the entire traffic flow of the street.

Potato famine
A potato orders a meal at a local restaurant. On arrival he realises it is completely inedible.

___________________________
* Vietnamese Bikie Gang


Never ask a local

266 Doi Can, Hanoi

Across the street from work there is a really popular street cafe. The floor is dirty and the washing up facilities seem dodgy but it is always packed and super fresh and fast and tasty and $1. The customer service ethos here is consistently cold-friendly ... typical Hanoi.

The waiters love taking the piss out of my attempts to read the menu board (I hear 2 or 3 laughing echos at every attempt). The last occasion when I ate in an off-peak time, the cook came out to squeeze my bicep, call me handsome then present me to the head waitress and ask me if she was pretty. She's about 25 so I figure they're worried about her dying an old maid. For some strange reason (not botox) I felt like her child bride. All I needed was a pretty pink parasol.

Yesterday a few of us went to eat with one of our local colleagues (Analyst B). I hate eating with locals - they're so fucking up themselves. You never see the chef come out to grab one of their biceps, much less call them pretty. As I attempted to frogmarch our group into my local, B decided there was a much better place to eat just around the corner. He took us somewhere off the beaten track and I pretended to be impressed and delighted even though I've been there before ... it's shithouse. This eatery's signature dish is a metal pot filled with oil, with 2 fried eggs, 3 chips, 2 beans, 4 pieces of steak and a round blob of something meaty swimming in them. You need to leave the lid on for the first 5 minutes or it spits oil out at you.

Given that today is the first day of the diet, I told him I was on a diet so would just get some pho'. I'm pretty good at saying "pho bo" or "pho ga" but B insisted on taking over by using words I didn't recognise. Show off.

This is what turned up.


When I pointed at the flotsam in my bowl and asked what it was, all I got was "that is a cube of congealed pig's blood" [top left] or "I think that's from the foot" [bottom middle] and "I don't know - probably something near the stomach" [the rest]. I started with sipping the soup, then tried gnawing on an artery to show I could fit in. Then I tried to eat the blood cubes ... I had a nibble then finally lost my nerve after dropping one back into the bowl, splashing soup over my shirt.

50 calories later and an "I'm too full", I started to think how good the local food will be for my diet.

20 April 2009

Hell's Potatoes

On Saturday afternoon R and I went off to get motorbikes but instead came across an establishment called the "Potato Café". We responded to the call and went in for a drink. Upstairs there were groups of 4, all playing cards. We asked the waitress if we could have a pack of cards and she smiled as she said no.

As the  only potatoes in the joint, we were treated very well and the staff helped us learn to insult each other in Vietnamese. At one point, as my enthusiasm took over, I asked them if I could have a job on the weekends to learn Vietnamese? They suddenly couldn't speak English.

About half an hour later a couple of other potatoes arrived. They weren't as cool as us (no insults, no banter) but were still treated with kindness.

A few drinks later we decided to find somewhere to rent our motorbikes. As we departed the Potato Café we found that the staff had recovered their English skills. Using a lot of confident pointing, they advised us to go up the road for the best prices. We went up the road and saw nothing. We asked some guy who was leaning against a pole. He confidently pointed back up the road then grabbed my arm and escorted us to his store, a travel agency directly across from the Potato Café.

We sat down and asked for a 3-month rental rate. He offered $5/day, ie $150/month. I lied that our friends who teach English here only pay $40/month and that is our target price. He nodded and said we would need to go somewhere else and led us down another series of alleys, no doubt to find a purveyor of scabby bikes.

Eventually we found ourselves down a very dark and narrow lane. Our tour guide rang a doorbell and eventually a man in a white singlet yelled out at him from a window 2 stories above. This made him ring another doorbell, which did not answer at all. It felt as if we were buying heroin; a lot of heroin. Or a gun.

Then a door opened across from us, a woman appeared and started whispering a fairly lengthy monologue. She was wearing a loose white t-shirt, light blue pyjama bottoms rolled up to look like riding breeches and gold high heels. It was the type of outfit you would imagine necessary to ride a large stuffed animal (competitively). She spoke softly and slowly, pointed back up the lane a lot while at the same time kicking off her heels and slowly rolling down her pyjama bottoms such that when her monologue was finished she looked like any other  poorly dressed doorway woman.

Eventually we were taken back up the street to about 6 doors from the travel agency. Our guide dumped us with another woman and wished us well. She was very friendly and while she started at $50 we got her down to the target price.

She gave me a black motorbike to test drive. I told her I really can't ride a bike and asked her where everything was. She laughed at each thing I asked and pointed to the brakes, the indicator, the gears and the throttle. As I set off without a helmet and into the busy stree for my test drive, she  chased me down and flicked up the bike stand which was still down. As I took off again, I heard more yelling and looked behind to see her shaking her head and her hands at me and laughing. But I figured it was too late and just kept going.

When I came back she showed me where the foot brake was located and we signed a contract. This contract had a list of conditions, the first being that you promise to be a very experienced and safe rider. I felt I'd learned a lot in the past 3 minutes and was happy to tick it.

Both of us now had motorbikes and were ready to roll. At the first traffic lights R pulled up beside me and said "What are we going to call our gang?" to which I replied "Hell's Potatoes". We both nodded solemnly and attempted a snarl. Then we gingerly put our bikes into 1st and slowly lurched off down a long road that neither of us recognised.

18 April 2009

Cum’s for Thanking

I haven’t heard back from Trang for the past 3 weeks so I don’t think our Vietnamese lessons are going ahead. I think she’s given up on me and I don’t blame her. I was a bad student with a terrible attitude. She was a bad teacher with condescending eyebrows and a sullen mouth. With so much in common it’s a shame it didn’t work out.

Luckily I still have the 12 lessons I downloaded from the Vietnamese Survival Phrases web site.

Each lesson begins with a musical intro: 4 bars of such dischordant Chinese percussion that if music was racist this is how it would sound. Immediately after the music finishes in comes the VSP catchphase “You’ll be surprised at how far a little Vietnamese will go.” It’s my favourite line. I imagine a Vietnamese person running down the street banging on various percussion instruments with a stick, This is not racist because it’s funny.

The lessons themselves are delivered by a perennially cheery Vietnamese American woman who gives you the impression that this is the best job she’s ever had. She seems to be about 23 and I imagine her as a bit plump with decent knockers, greasy hair and lots of friends. As she speaks, she is so excited and positive that I detect occasional squeals trying to escape. I’m not sure if she thinks she’s attending a child’s birthday party or having an orgasm. So I nicknamed her Soon Yi to cover both bases. 

I have come to the realization that Soon Yi has been lying to me since the get go. Each lesson is turning out to a 4-minute glimpse into a seemingly basic (yet ultimately misleading) phrase. It’s hard enough to communicate in Vietnamese without these podcasts getting in the way of progress. I’ll give you an example.

Soon Yi dedicates our first lesson to thank you very much! and allocates the full 4 minutes to it. I am a seasoned language student and know how important it is to say such common phrases correctly. So I listen to this podcast 4 or 5 times to ensure that my accent and tones are outstanding.

Step one. We learn how to say thank you:

“Cảm ơn”

Cảm lies somewhere between “gum” and “cum”. If it was a suburb it would definitely be on the wrong side of the tracks and possibly pregnant or smoking dope. 

The C sound is pronounced like a hard “G” but not aspirated. It’s like saying “gum” when you’ve got a cold. This is the same as Thai so I found it easy. 

The strange question mark above the ả tells you to use a particular tone. I don’t like this tone at all. It is not only nasally, but rises and falls slightly throughout the syllable. It begins like a whining toddler who has lost one of those small plastic toys from the Fruit Loops boxes (“Muuummm”). However, before you know it the tone is ended abruptly finished with a gulp … much like a fish taking in air. So to put them together, imagine the kid starts to whine (“Muuuumm”) before accidentally swallowing the small plastic toy (which was in his mouth the whole time).

Ơn is pronounced like “urn”. Soon Yi tells me that this word has no tone at all, but when I try to say it the same way as she does I find it emasculating. My normal speaking voice was not particularly deep to begin with and this is about 5 semitones higher. It requires a bit of singing.

“Cảm ơn”
“Cảm ơn”
“Cảm ơn”
Got it.

Step two. We learn how to say very much: 

“Rất nhiều”

The pronunciation of this is actually quite straightfoward. And fun. It rhymes with “Fuck You”. So it’s basically “Rut New”, made to rhyme with “fuck you” said in a strong Vietnamese accent. As I practice this I imagine I’m a disgruntled shopkeeper in Cabramatta, mumbling under my breath,

Rất has a rising tone. You say it with an element of surprised enquiry, like the Whaaa in “Whaaat? You can’t be serious?!”

Nhiều has a falling tone. It sounds like how you would say “New” when you are disappointed. As I practice it I imagine I’m a puppy who isn’t allowed to go for a walk. A disappointed talking puppy.

“rất nhiều”
“rất nhiều”
“rất nhiều”
Got it. 

“Cảm ơn rất nhiều”
“Cảm ơn rất nhiều”
“Cảm ơn rất nhiều”
I’m a legend.

That night, armed with my shiny new phrase, I go out to eat. It is a very nice restaurant with great food and mean waitresses. As one of them clears my plate away I decide to soften her up with a bit of humble foreigner. I am a professional humble foreigner.

“Cảm ơn rất nhiều!” I say, beaming politely. She stops clearing, straightens up and stares at me. Her face is so expressionless that she must have been practising this in the mirror since high school. So I say it again and elevate my cheeriness: “Cảm ơn … rất nhiều!!”. She gives me a quick shake of her head as if a fly has landed on her nose. As I start looking for the fly her face reverts back to blank staring. In I go again: “Cảm ơn rất nhiều”. More of the same blank. I am feeling less and less thankful with each attempt. She stands there a bit longer, before quickly shaking off another fly and walking away from the table. 

A few moments later she returns with a menu. She hands me the menu, opened at the Cocktails page and tries to help me find something which might sound like a “Cảm ơn rất nhiều”. This is quite embarrassing but I persevere. “No no no! I am saying Cảm ơn rất nhiều – you know – this is thank you very much in Vietnamese! Cảm ơn rất nhiều? Thank you very much?”. By this time my voice is starting to take on a slightly distressed, pleading tone. Silence. She stares down at me. I stare back up at her. More silence.  I hear a dull thud as my dignity hits the floor. Her index finger takes charge and returns us both into the Cocktail menu. I order a Margherita and thank her in English. As she walks away I mumble “Cảm ơn fuck you” under my breath.

Trang must have seen this coming a mile off. No wonder she dumped me.

17 April 2009

Confined Spaces

I am currently staying on the 14th floor of the Shangri La hotel in Kuala Lumpur. This evening I experienced a strange moment in the elevator.

As the doors opened for me on 14 there was one man in the lift. He was leaning against the wall and as I got in he stood up to shift aside and let me in. We settled a comfortable distance from each other: me on the back left, looking ahead at the doors and he at the front right, staring at the buttons.

The lift stopped at 12. Another single man got in. All three of us reshuffled slightly to evenly distribute the space. He too looked ahead; this time into the middle of the doors. No one said a word. No one looked at each other. Everyone stayed staring silently ahead as they moved.

Another man got in at 11. Without saying a word, everyone knew what he had to do. We all shuffled again and rebalanced the space. 11 also settled into position and looked ahead at the doors.

Another man got in at 10. More reshuffling, this time within a much more confined surface area. Our newest entrant looked at no one and settled into the buttons on the left hand side.

The lift stopped again - I kid you not - at 9. Another single man. This time the two men in his immediate path moved aside while the rest of us swayed uneasily from foot to foot in empathy but not quite sure where to go. 

I felt like we should have been wearing light grey suits and bowler hats and holding green apples.